She calls me azulene, has a delicate blue shade and it’s a natural extract known for its soothing properties, therefore ideal for sensitive skin. It is no surprise, then, that it is one of the most sought after ingredients of Korean skincare: on Olive Young, the great observatory of beauty trends in Seoul and a reference platform for K-beauty, azulene now appears everywhere, from serums to face creams. But what exactly is it and why do so many people talk about it?
Azulene, derived from chamomile
The name comes from the Spanish azul, “blue”and recalls its distinctive feature: azulene is a natural active ingredient obtained from the distillation of chamomile flowers and it is responsible for the typical blue color of the essential oil extracted from the plant, which can also be reflected in cosmetics that contain it.
Always associated with the relief of sensitive skin, chamomile owes many of its properties to this component, historically also used for its soothing and purifying virtues.
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Also indicated on the label as guaiazulene, azulene is establishing itself as one of the ingredients on which K-beauty focuses most decisively, especially in treatments dedicated to sensitive or easily reactive skin. This is because it has a soothing and refreshing action on the epidermis, as well as helping to reduce skin redness and discomfort.
An anti-inflammatory ingredient
Azulene has a particularly interesting property: is capable of counteract the release of inflammatory mediators, intervening like this in the early stages of the cutaneous inflammatory process.
In practice, it works not only by helping to reduce the reactivity of the skin, but also by promoting the natural mechanisms of repair and regeneration of the epidermis.
For this one of his calming and rebalancing action, azulene is particularly suitable for treatment of skin fragility: from irritation and redness, also of solar origin, up to imperfections such as pimples and impurities, helping to improve the overall appearance of the skin.
Furthermore, it has humectant properties, helps restore the hydrolipidic film and keep the skin constantly hydrated, which is why it is also suitable in case of dryness. Last but not least, the astringent properties: regulates the permeability of the capillary vessels and therefore reduces the reactivity of the skin itself, as well as protecting it from free radicals and damage from external agents.
In combination with ceramides and gotu kola
If a 2022 study highlighted how azulene can be particularly effective in association with ceramides, contributing to improve skin hydration and to reduce any roughness and itching sensations.
Different, however, the relationship with gotu kola, another symbolic ingredient of K-beauty and much loved in Korean skincare. THE two assets have substantial differences. The first concerns their nature: gotu kola is a complex botanical extract, while azulene is a single compound derivative, obtained mainly from chamomile.
Also on the level of scientific research differences emerge: the gotu kola is supported by a large and consolidated body of studies, while for azulene the evidence is still being explored and progressively growing. However, according to several experts, the chamomile derivative can represent a valid alternative in cases of sensitivity or allergy to gotu kola.