Grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine wood and saffron ice cream in a bowl of beeswax: until the end of 2024 you can be culinary surprised in three-star restaurant Noma in Copenhagen. After that it’s all over, because chef René Redzepi finds a star business exhausting and barely profitable. Flemish star chefs, who have already dined at Noma, understand him. “If we charge the same margins for lobster as for a croque monsieur, no one will eat lobster anymore.”

    Marc Coppens

    09-01-23, 19:30