Hardly any fashion month of the recent past is as strongly shaped by debuts before the start as this spring/summer 2026 season. What starts in New York and London surprisingly quietly increases in Milan and Paris to a real highlight of the designer: Inner carousel. The “trip to Jerusalem” of the past few years, in which creative directorates changed from house to house, will find their summit this season. With so much new you can quickly lose track – that’s why Fashionunited has summarized the most important debuts and data for you.
New York Fashion Week
The New York Fashion Week opens the Fashion Month – and that surprisingly quietly. Hardly any change in the creative tips, hardly any debuts.
Only Balenciaga-Alumni Nicholas aburn ensures a fresh wind. He presented his first Area collection on Friday after taking over the management of co -founder Piotrek Panszczyk at the beginning of the year.
There was also news at Proenza Schouler, albeit without a large catwalk debut. On Wednesday morning at 10 a.m., the label showed its first collection since Rachel Scott’s appointment. It wasn’t just her handwriting – the studio designed, she advised. A foretaste of what will still come.
London Fashion Week
The London Fashion Week is even calmer than in New York this season. Instead of exciting designers: Innerbüt at a large traditional house, the once celebrated event, which has lost a lot of creative radiance on Milan and Paris in recent years, focuses on a “next era of British fashion”.
London Fashion Week is to be revived under Laura Weir, the managing director of the British Fashion Council. Your ambitious plan? The establishment of a sustainable fashion industry for designers in the United Kingdom and worldwide.
Milan Fashion Week
What London is missing, Milan and Paris make up more than. On September 23, the gaze of the fashion world is on Demna Gvasalia, which for the first time reveals his vision for Gucci – a debut that is already one of the mostly expected of the season.
Just a day later, on September 24, Simone Bellotti will further specify his ideas for Jil Sander after giving a first insight into the form of a video in advance.
Teaser seem to be a trend this season. While Bellotti used an image film, Dario gave vitals for Versace and Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta on the red carpet of the Venice Film Festival for their upcoming work.
Vitale shows a presentation for Versace on September 26, a day later Louise Trotter follows for Bottega Veneta. She is the only woman who will celebrate a debut on the big Milan Funusal this season.
Paris Fashion Week
In Paris, similar to Milan, some of the most renowned fashion houses reveal new creative visions. Miguel Castro Freitas starts with his debut for Mugler on October 2. The Portuguese designer is one of the few relatively unknown names that were appointed in the course of the youngest designers: inner carousel to the top of a large fashion house.
The designer duo, which is first performed for Loewe on October 3, is completely different. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schouler, officially take on Jonathan Anderson. Anderson, in turn, will show his Womenswear collection for Dior on October 1, not a real debut, since he already presented his first menswear collection in June, but the first look at his interpretation of the feminine codes of the house.
A day later, one of the hottest expected comeback follows. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had withdrawn from Valentino in March 2024, takes over the creative management at Balenciaga. A return also marks the appointment of the Dutch designer Duran Lantink as the creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier. After years of the rotation principle in the French brand, a single designer takes the reins into her hand. He shows his first collection on October 5.
However, the crowning glory undoubtedly forms the greatest event not only of the season, but maybe of the entire year. Matthieu Blazy presents his first show for Chanel. Ten months after his appointment and almost six years after the death of Karl Lagerfeld, expectations are greater than ever.