THE Tax strokes in fashion are on the agenda. In thewas deArtificial intelligence, fashion brings deceptive representations on stage, bringing to light a trend with historical roots: theeffect trompe l’oeil. The expression, deriving from the union of French terms tromper (“deceive “) and œil (eye), indicates a pictorial technique which, through the use of expedients such as chiaroscuro and perspective, manages to induce in the observer the illusion of looking at real objects, actually painted on a two -dimensional surface.

Over the years, fashion has explored this expedient Moving from the reproduction of Silhouette and two -dimensional decorations, to the most recent printing experiments of original textures and fabric plots. Whatever the shape and aspect of the artifice, lObjective is only one: inducing the spectator the feeling of no longer being able to trust his eyes, observing the clothes.

Spring-summer 2025: the season of illusions

Mimetisms and optical effects have historically found ample space in the artistic world, but also in the fashion world, where pockets, accessories and details are printed on the garments themselves, in a more or less realistic way, changing reality in the viewer’s eyes. A “makeup” that today is above all a trend, as shown by the spring-summer 2025 fashion shows.

From Prada to Moschino to Balenciaga

In some cases, this technique involves the matter or physical details of the garments, which are well suited to be altered, imitated or made two -dimensional. Knows it well Pradawhich has all fake with fake hills of fur printed on the cornerstones e designed belts, instead of applied, on miniskirts. Also Moschino and Jw Anderson challenged each other to illusory shotswith trench coats painted on maxi clothes and mini dress sketches only for fake. Demn He defended himself to the sound of lingerie: the Georgian designer has differentiated in theuse of this technique, artfully cooking, bralette and lace holding up on tight meat -colored suits for Balenciaga.

An Moschino spring-summer 2025 look (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).

Other times, however, it is the body itself to become the main subject Of this artistic technique (and fashionable): just think of Marco Rambaldi’s spring-summer 2025 knitwear, animated by female forms, or to the “designed” lives of diesel. An optical illusion made through the representation of slender silhouette Devoré.

A Spring-Summer Balenciaga look 2025 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).

Fashion trompe l’œila trend rich in history

Promoter of the association between deceptive and fashionable art could only be Elsa Schiaparelli. Became famous as one of the main exponents of the surrealist artistic movement, as well as a great friend ofArtist Salvador fromthein 1927 he made a collection of knitwear characterized by drawings of large flakes and bandanas, to give theillusion ofactual presence of scarves tied around the neck.

Throughout history, also the Belgian designer Martin Margiela He often ventured into this technique. In particular, for spring-summer 1996, known as Print Collectionused prints on clothes and accessories to recreate magical two -dimensional effects.

The “Trompe-L’œil” in a look of the Maison Margiela spring-summer 1999 collection (Photo: Giovanni Giannoni/Penske Media Via Getty Images).

A theme that since then will always be part of the brand’s artistic DNA, as evidenced by the shiny 3D effect sequins printed on the jersey dresses of the spring-summer 1999 collection, revisited for the historical collaboration with the H&M low cost player in 2013.

Among the pioneers of the artifice, Jean-Paul Gaultier

Impossible then not to mention Jean-Paul GaultierThat has made technique trompe l’œil your secret weapon to conduct the game of seduction: Thanks to the alternation of lines with contrasting colors, the designer’s leaders manage to return to the observer the illusion of new, sensual and three -dimensional shapes. The same reason was taken up by Glenn Martens in the Haute Couture 2022 collection designed for the brand.

The Cool Girl Kendall Jenner has made the maison technique among the stars technique among the stars: Just think of the look trompe l’œil of the PARTY of the Oscar 2023, or to the Vintage spring-summer 1999 dress from the body of Venus who immediately became viral on Instagram the same year (not without some controversy).

From high fashion to streetwear

If there is one thing that fashion has learned, it is that theeffect trompe l’œil It manages to make the most ordinary garments special. In the spring-summer 2023 parade, Bottega Veneta declined the trend ofOptical effect in a material key: Kate Moss has trod the catwalk with a overshirt with tartan motif and a pair of five Baggy pockets, both made of printed leather to emulate the flannel and denim respectively.

Over the years, the intuition of the maison has become a real trademarkreaching even the humble gymnastic suits, where simple cotton jersey has become precious skin.

Denim and Flamella skin skin in the Bottega Veneta spring-summer 2023 collection, played on the catwalk by Kate Moss (Photo: Giovanni Giannoni/Penske Media Via Getty Images).

Among other illustrious examples, Pierpaolo Piccioli has explored this artistic device In the Haute Couture autumn-winter 2023/2024 of Valentino. Wearing by Kaia Gerber, four weeks of hard work have translated into a fake denim, made by embroidering a fabric diagonally a fabricinfinity of beads of about 80 different shades of blue, to perfectly make theappearance of cotton twill.

Made in silk gazar, stormed with indigo glass beads to reproduce the natural depth of the denim canvas. TROMPE –‘œil jeans from the Haute Couture Ai 2023/2024 parade by Valentino (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).

The denim, the new canvas of trompe l’œil

The step from catwalk to the street is short, often facilitated by forms of daily use, with greater practicality. The Swedish acne studios brand chooses the photojournalist print on cotton canvasgiving the illusion of denim, leather finishes and patchwork: the aged effect of super Baggy jeans has a relaxed, but sought -after way, thanks to the use of trompe l’œil. Also Diesel declined the trend this season with a sporting attitudeproposing a jersey zip sweatshirt, fakely decorated with a hyper -realist image of an overlying denim jacket.

When the border between reality and falsity is canceled and the ordinary becomes extraordinary, the certainties fall. Is it appropriate to wonder if the truth is really in the eyes of the viewer?

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