“It’s getting a bit out of hand now,” says Joost, laughing in his chef’s outfit. “First it was just a few people, now there are many more. Former colleagues, someone from Soest wanted to come, people from Haarlem—some I don’t even know.” What is the secret of his success? “They’re cheap; I just want to get my costs out of it. And people trust that they really are gluten-free.”

Eating gluten can have major consequences for some people. Joost himself is glued to the toilet bowl, but a friend of his has to reach for her epi-pen. “Then you want to be sure that the dumplings are really gluten-free. I want to make people happy for whom it is normally difficult to find gluten-free oliebollen.”

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