Dto the working of gold and silver, from fine wool yarns to silk fabrics, from custom-made hats to the art of mosaic. Without forgetting the chiseling of glass and crystal, ceramics, lace, leather and skin. The creations of Tuscan craftsmanship are numerous and interpret traditions, often handed down through generations, through the hands of those who have been able to shape the past, giving new shape to the future. Florence is the cradle of this wealth and in some areas of the city, especially in the Oltrarno, there are plenty of shops.
A journey into Impressionism: 70 works by great masters in Florence
An ever-increasing number of women dot this universe, artist-craftsmen who have inherited the business from their parents, or who have undertaken a new entrepreneurial challenge but chosen an ancient job, rooted in the forms of the Renaissance. Our itinerary touches the Florentine hills, enters the historic craft districts and more secluded areas, finally leaving the city limits to extend to the municipalities of the metropolitan area. In these ateliers, and in the perfection of the objects produced, lies the heart of “made in Italy”.
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Wefts and weaves in silk, gold and silver
The city of Florence preserves a boundless memory of wefts and weaves, woven with ancient warping machines in silk factories, as has happened for 120 years in the Lisio Foundation. Elena Baistrocchi is the soul of the silk factory, a company that since the time of Giuseppe Lisio (Gabriele D’Annunzio defined him as a “weaver of every colour”) has kept alive and handed down, through teaching, the art of hand weaving in silk, gold and silver. A little out of the way, immersed in the greenery of the Florentine hills, this workshop (visited by appointment) is dotted with large looms from the late nineteenth century, which lend themselves to the creation of exclusive fabricsunder the expert hands of master weavers capable of working as they once did. Via Benedetto Fortini, 143, Florence, foundationalisio.org
Artisans in Florence, the art of mosaic comes to life here
The journey continues in a historic craft district, Santa Croce, and leads to the little-known art of scagliola, a late-Renaissance technique which, using natural materials, imitates marble and precious stone inlays. «I grew up in my father’s workshop, who gave me a passion for artistic craftsmanship. Thanks to him, and to the helpers who supported him, I also learned the technique of Florentine mosaic in marble and semi-precious stones” says Cecilia Falciai. Since 2016 he has led his workshop, specializing in the creation of classic-style products and the launch of new contemporary lines. For Cecilia, the concept of the “open workshop” is very important, to let the public know the “behind the scenes” of her manufacturing activities, making them literally touch the tools and materials. Via dei Macci, 25/r, Florence, ceciliafalciaiscagliola.com
Precious geometries at Ponte Vecchio
We move to the heart of Florence, to Ponte Vecchio, the undisputed symbol of goldsmith shops. Tradition and innovation intertwine on the Arno in Maria Gaia Piccini’s jewels, which are synonymous with home and tradition. His atelier was born where his family has been designing and selling gold for generations. In 2016 Piccini founded her own brand in which the archetypal shapes of jewelery are able to “dialogue” with each other, as in the “liaiSon” collection, which evokes the power of relationships, and in which precious triangles and circles can be joined, transforming into every occasion from earring to pendant, from pendant to bracelet, giving life to new creations. Her brand is strongly feminine (with packaging made by women) and has particular attention to local production, thanks to collaborations with local artisans. Pontevecchio 31/r, mariagaiapiccini-pontevecchio.com
The secret of “egg yolk” tempera
Veronica Balzani, using medieval techniques, ideally transports us to fourteenth-century painting. She is a restorer, who has made egg yolk tempera and gold leaf her distinctive features. Painters in the Middle Ages had found egg yolk the perfect binder to create brilliant, enameled works of art. And that’s exactly what Balzani does now in a shop that stands out in a beautiful historic building in the center of Florence. Here you can truly live an experience, imagining the curious gaze of an apprentice for the first time in Giotto’s workshop: Balzani uses the same materials of the time and ancient and precious colours, such as lapis lazuli or azurite, lacquers and dyes such as cochineal and many other pigments. A true journey backwards to discover the secrets hidden in the gold of the fourteenth century tables. In Florence, Veronica exhibited her miniatures in the crypt of the Basilica of San Lorenzo in 2016 and in 2021 in the Music Room of the Zeffirelli Foundation. Via Pandolfini 18 black, Florence, veronicabalzani.eu
As iconic as a straw hat
Moving to a more peripheral neighborhood we come across the world of hats: Mode di Liana. Since the nineteenth century, headdresses have become icons of high fashion in Florence, thanks to the massive presence of Anglo-Saxon ladies in Tuscany, who appreciated their precious workmanship. The straw hat, known as Leghorn (the English version of Livorno, because large quantities of it left from its port to reach various destinations in Europe and the United States), was particularly successful. That straw, woven from braids (the women of Signa, skilled weavers, were known for their mastery), and which took the most disparate shapes in the Florentine ateliers, landed on the heads of royalty and the international jet set. Mode di Liana is the kingdom of Cristina Pieraccioli and her mother Liana, founder and milliner. «We make our customers’ wishes come true, dialogue with them is fundamental, as is advice. Our work is carried out exclusively on measure” says Cristina. The traditional straw hat is one of the musts of the atelier, but others are also produced: in felt, in silk, with feathers and crystals, and even wedding veils. Via Fratelli Bandiera, 8 red, Florence, modeliana.com
If alpacas graze in the fiefdom
From Florence we take a trip to the rural area of Campi Bisenzio, in Vernio, where in a bucolic atmosphere you can look up close at the alpacas in the pastures and the very soft yarns that are obtained from their fleece. Anticofeudo, led by Greta Cherubini, is the last stage of our journey into Tuscan female creativity, and allows us to learn about the entire process of the supply chain, from animal breeding to the production of fine clothing, always in the wake of the wool tradition in Val of Bisenzio.
On the farm you can purchase clothing and accessories in the shop (open upon reservation).. Via Cerbino 11, Terrigoli di Vernio, anticofeudo.it
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