Leo Lanussol is one of the most disruptive and talented chefs of his generation. He was one of the minds behind Proper, a fire restaurant that marked a before and after in Buenos Aires gastronomy. Today, his passion for fire is reignited in his new personal project, Ness, which he has been cooking for years. “It is a cuisine with something primitive, with little contact with the product but with a lot of depth of flavor, a flavor that at first glance you cannot understand where it comes from,” describes Leo. And soon the mystery is revealed.
That flavor comes from the first floor, from the production kitchen, where they make their own garum (fish sauce), ferments, misos, and cooking stocks. Everything goes down on a forklift and is finished immediately in the living room, where the wood oven, the grill, and the iron plates on hot coals are located. The bread is made on those embers, which are painted with orange and rosemary oil; a sweet Palermo chili is burned, served with radicheta oil (a good bitter contrast); and apricots are cooked in a dip that accompanies mackerel cured in rice vinegar. From the oven comes a very delicate chernia and potato soufflé (the whites are beaten at the moment) and a chicken with orange sauce: both dishes come on their cooking bases for several hours, made with bones and carcasses. Full use of the product is part of Ness’ sustainability philosophy.
Dishes come in half portions (generous size, for one person) and whole portions (for sharing). There are several dishes with vegetables and good salads (the favorite is watercress with pie potatoes). Among the desserts, the halva flan (with black sesame and caramel) is not to be missed.
The avant-garde of cuisine (and the Japanese influence) extends to architecture. There are community bars and tables, including one for 10 people with its own olive tree, brought from Mendoza and successfully transplanted into the room. At the entrance there is a bar where you can start or end the night, with good wines, cocktails and a tempting and accessible menu.
Address: Grecia 3691, Nuñez. Reservations: 11 3455-8612. From Tuesday to Saturday from 6:00 p.m. to 12:00 p.m. @nessbsas.
Average bar price (without reservation): $65,000. Average restaurant price: $30,000.
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