It’s 27 degrees outside, but inside it’s all about rope, hibernation and the need to protect yourself. Trend researcher Lidewij Edelkoort presented her latest trend forecast “Hibernation” for autumn/winter 2024 near Amsterdam.
When Edelkoort started this season, energy prices were through the roof and the war in Ukraine dominated the news. “I just couldn’t ‘just’ make a trend prediction. I had to respond to what was happening in the world.” She saw an insecurity in humanity, and fear. People have to save energy and are wondering how to get through the winter.
Edelkoort and her trend office looked for answers to these questions and looked at the animal world: How do they survive the winter? With this in mind, Edelkoort draws several conclusions that lead to a vision for the FW24 season. FashionUnited summarizes the highlights here.
While a few seasons ago the color forecast was “brighter than ever,” the colors that dominate the Fall/Winter 24 forecast are mostly muted. But that doesn’t mean that the traditional dark winter colors are strong. Different shades of white, but also ice blue and orange appear in several mood boards by Edelkoort. The colors brown and gray can also be seen in abundance and are associated by the trend researcher with wool coats, for example.
Knitting sets the tone
One of the biggest trends emerging is the massive return of knitwear in all its forms. “Knitwear has been a thing of the past for a very long time,” Edelkoort said at the seminar organized by Appletizer. “Often there were only one or two pieces of knitwear in a winter collection, the rest were sweatshirts. Knitwear is becoming very important again now. People want to feel secure, and in fashion that means clothes that you have to wrap around and find support in.”
Those who thought knitwear was limiting were proven wrong at Edelkoort’s presentation. From light knits based on natural fibers to heavy knits with coarse yarns to sexy lace patterns, it promises a comeback of handicrafts in all forms.
The different textures are also reflected, for example through the use of mohair, but also through knitting patterns inspired by baby fashion. There is the traditional cable knit with all its variations, but also knit with bubble pattern.
Knitwear is also versatile. You can opt for a plain version, or for a distinctive one with (animal) patterns or big flowers à la Marimekko. You can also play with the processing. Decorative details such as a ruffled collar, but also fringes and open edges give the knitwear its own identity. What should you focus on in the autumn/winter season 24? “The cardigan becomes very important, especially for men.”
Autumn/Winter 2024 according to Li Edelkoort: Huge winter coats, slipper-like shoes
In her trend talk, Edelkoort analyzes how animals and trees hibernate and how this can be used as inspiration for clothing. The most common themes of the preview are garments that people want to hide and wrap themselves in.
The game of hide-and-seek in blankets, be it quilts or plaid blankets, therefore comes up again and again. Anyone looking for a physical expression of this need can look at the collections of the American brand The Row. Simple but voluminous designs with lots of layering. Those who lean more towards the checked pattern can find this in Isabel Marant’s woven jackets with a tartan pattern for several seasons.
Some of Edelkoort’s statements during the presentation are particularly noteworthy for the retail sector. So she warns that the down jacket is really going to disappear now. Winter coats are now made of wool again, are becoming more and more voluminous and the color palette moves between gray and brown. This also serves as a reminder that the color black is all but absent from the winter ’24 forecast. Edelkoort predicted the disappearance of black a few years ago.
As the look and silhouette of coats change, so does footwear. Slipper-shaped shoes are worn with the oversized coats, which are reminiscent of fine blankets. “The sneaker disappears from the scene quickly,” explains Edelkoort. “The shoes remain bulky and clunky, but they’re moving more towards slippers.”
Lidewij Edelkoort: “Healing becomes the main focus of designers”
In addition to some specific statements relating to individual elements, Edelkoort makes a number of other important statements. Most prominent is the change in the fashion design profession, which has to do with people’s need for physical and mental security. “The ‘healing’ becomes a major focus in the making of clothing. How can the product help someone mentally? How can you help people?” Creative people would do well to produce less and have more respect for the materials they work with.
At the end of the seminar, Edelkoort leaves her captivated audience with enough input to ponder for months. Even with an outside temperature of 27 degrees, the prospect of blankets, warmth and slippers makes you look forward to the autumn/winter 2024 season.
This article was published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ