THEL sea it is a precious and delicate asset that must be safeguarded even with small daily actions, including ours conscious beauty consumption and eco friendly: especially in summer, when the beaches get crowded, i solar dissolve in water, in thousands of tons, and the finished product packages are abandoned on the sand or carried by currents into the depths of the sea.
Preserving the sea, everyone’s goal
From “no man’s land” to a place to protect: the high seas (outside the jurisdiction of coastal countries) has finally obtained the dignity it deserved, thanks to the new UN treaty on the protection of the oceans. L’High Seas Treatyinitialed three months ago, has set as its goal the protection of 30 percent of water by 2030.
An important result for the future of the planet, given that oceanic ecosystems mitigate the impact of climate change. Just to give a few examples: they absorb between 25 and 30 percent of CO2 and contribute to heat balance regulation of the Earth, as they manage to incorporate, and then release, important quantities of heat which, thanks to the sea currents, are moved from the Equator to the Poles.
But industrialized civilization and our lifestyle are slowly eroding this perfect oceanic system, increasingly wearing down its balance and biodiversity. And the commitment of the states is not enough.
How solar can have less impact on the sea
This need prompted the beauty companies to reformulate solar products, eliminating those potentially harmful substances for the oceanic environmentusing easily biodegradable packaging and plastic-free and promoting a series of projects and initiatives for the protection of flora and fauna.
Let’s start where it all began: the bleaching of tropical coral reefs that began as early as the 1980s. Today, various phenomena have been called into question, including the use of some filters and other substances contained in cosmetic products.
Why are filters so harmful to the marine environment?
Word to cosmetologist Marta Montoliwhich helps us clarify. «The sunscreen products we apply to safely expose ourselves to UVA and UVB rays can in part be removed from sea water when we dive and, consequently, spread in the environment and bioaccumulate in various species. Some studies have shown the impact that certain UV filters have on the marine environmentfirst of all the Benzophenone-3considered responsible for damage to corals such as bleaching, DNA alterations and deformations» he explains.
“Currently anyway there is no actual evidence to support the hypothesis that sunscreen ingredients are the root cause of significant damage to aquatic organisms. And that is why some filters banned in countries which I have already listed have not been subject to elimination or restriction by the European Commission.
On the Australian Museum website i five main factors related to coral bleaching: heating or cooling of waters, excessively high or low levels of light, high levels of nutrients, excess phosphorus and shipping accidents. Sunscreen products (or other cosmetics) are not mentioned: the role that cosmetics can play is probably much less. In any case, there is no doubt that consumers’ attention towards environmental sustainability is growing, transforming a trend into a real need that must be listened to».
Chemicals or minerals: what is their impact on the sea?
«In the first instance, it was some of the organic (called chemical) filters that were considered responsible for coral bleaching and harmful to other marine species due to their bioaccumulation. This has led to the request and development of sunscreens containing only inorganic (mineral) filters, considered less harmful to the marine environment» continues cosmetologist Marta Montoli.
“Nevertheless, other studies show similar effects on marine species caused by titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (mineral filters), especially in nano form.”
Let’s talk about micro plastics, what are they?
«Very small fragments of plastic materialUsually less than 5 mm which, if released into the environment, are degraded into ever smaller particles and can accumulate, remaining there for centuries. And they are also contained in cosmetic products» continues the cosmetologist Marta Montoli.
«Those present in the sea can be iingested by marine species; through the food chain, the plastic swallowed by fish is able to reach directly into our food. The effects on health are not known to date, but plastic often contains additives and other substances that are potentially toxic to animals and humans if ingested”.
Which filters are also dangerous for the skin?
As of November 2018, the European Commission undertook a review of the Regulation on cosmetic products and established a priority list of 28 substances, whose potential effect as endocrine disruptors (chemical substances that can alter the hormonal balance of living organisms) should be evaluated.
Fourteen were treated with higher priority among these four sunscreens: Homosalate, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene. The Commission therefore decided to ban the use of 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor and to drastically reduce the maximum usable quantity of Homosalate (effectively preventing its effective use as a filter). The results instead “exonerated” Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene.
Avène for corals
Therefore Avenefor example, in addition to eliminating these filters, has decided to engage with Pur Project in the reconstruction of the coral reef of the Balinese village Pejarakan. «Thanks to the support of Eau Thermale Avène, since 2019 we have installed almost 17 underwater structures and transplanted 2,040 corals of twenty different species every year» says Emilia d’Avack, expert on marine ecosystems at Pur Project.
«Our goal is to ensure that the coral reef returns to its natural and healthy state and regains all its functions» continues the expert, highlighting that «each phase of the program is designed with the population, local authorities and fishing associations and tourism. We provide the local community with all the tools so they can continue to conserve natural capital and restore the reef themselves.”
BioNike for Portofino
Even the Mediterranean has its champions. It is the case of bionike, which is promoting the initiative for the second consecutive year A sea of starswith synergistic and transversal projects in collaboration with Worldrise, a non-profit organization that has been active for a decade for the protection and enhancement of the marine environment. This year we have chosen to support the 30×30 Italy campaign (protection of 30 percent of the seas by 2030) and the AMPlification activity, in support of raising awareness among citizens and local communities about the importance of Marine Protected Areas ( AMP).
Bionike has decided to support that of Portofino“one of smallest but most precious marine protected areas in Italy, born 25 years ago amidst a thousand difficulties to overcome the distrust of the local community» she says Mariasole Bianco, marine conservation expert and president of Worldrise. And there is still so much to do!
Why it’s important to choose sunscreens for the sea and the skin
Protecting the skin from the sun is essential. «There are three main reasons why it is important to protect yourself from the sun’s rays: skin tumours, acne and aging with the appearance of wrinkles and spots» explains dermatologist Ines Mordente.
We must not forget that «the sun is the main inducer of skin tumours, especially the forms called basagliomas or spinagliomas and a whole series of pre-cancerous diseases (actinic keratosis and dyskeratosis) which can evolve over time» continues the doctor.
Which underlines: «Sunscreen should be used daily according to your skin type. Mature skin needs specific active ingredients such as thermal water to hydrate, ceramides to restructure the skin barrier, unlike that of a teenager who needs an oil-free sunscreen. Solar is like a tailored suit!».
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