Suicoke: From doll maker to trendy sandal

Suicoke stands for modern, often unusual sandals far away from the ‘healthy slippers’ cliché that often sticks to the airy and comfortable footwear. Through collaborations with hip brands like Doublet, Moncler and Dr. Martens also wants to expand the Japanese brand further in Europe. FashionUnited takes a closer look at the label, which began as an art collective.

The anonymous art and design collective

In 2006, Suicoke started as an anonymous art and design collective in Tokyo. The creators, who remain unknown to this day, tried their hand at various forms such as (matryoshka) dolls and lamps inspired by filmmaker Tim Burton and emo culture. Even as the collective evolved over the next ten years into a brand that took on a new form – that of shoes – this dark and artistic world remained part of their DNA. In the current collaboration with Bearbrick, toy manufacturer Medicom Toy’s toy brand, a collector’s item was created that adorns the Matryoshka graphic with a skull embossing, which is characteristic of Suicoke.

A “strong surrealistic and artistic component of the Suicoke DNA is particularly evident in the collaborations,” explained Enrico Pasi, global brand director of the sandals brand, to FashionUnited. In addition to bright colors and patterns as well as unusual prints, a model can sometimes look like a human foot (collaboration with Midorikawa) or a plush sheep’s head (collab with doublet). But the shoe manufacturer’s range also includes cooperations that are more suitable for everyday use, such as the boots with the Drake-Make Ovo and with the Italian luxury outerwear brand Moncler.

Suicoke’s green footprint

Sustainability also plays an increasingly important role at Suicoke. The brand unveiled its “first real attempt at a more sustainable sandal” at the end of March, according to Pasi. Reused materials, fabric leftovers from production and recycled nylon were used for this. The footbed is made from Brazilian sugar cane and the sole was developed in collaboration with Vibram, an Italian rubber sole specialist. The Ecostep Evo soles used for this consist of 30 percent recycled Vibram rubber.

Suicoke Eco Line SS22 from Suicoke on vimeo.

“Our goal is to bring to market a sandal that can be made entirely from recycled or biodegradable components,” said Pasi. “We strive to reduce our environmental footprint while still maintaining the quality that Suicoke is known for.”

Rapper and pandemic increase popularity

The brand is particularly well-known for the Moto slip-on model and the Depa sandal silhouette. However, both shoes took some time to develop into the bestsellers they are today. Artists and trendsetters such as Asap Rocky and Kanye West, who integrated the models into their style, caused the first boom. The pandemic boosted popularity, which was unexpected for the brand, Pasi said. “As the pandemic and lockdown swept the world, it was worn both at home and outdoors for its functionality and comfort. Her appealing designs, which made people feel ‘dressed’ while still being cozy at home, made her a real staple in many wardrobes.”

With a combination of functionality and modern shoes, the brand reaches its main customers: men aged 20 to 35 who like to dress urban and modern. But female customers are also to be won over to the brand with collaborations such as those with the Danish designer and LVMH award winner Cecilie Bahnsen and the fashion label Alanui. And apparently with success: According to the Global Brand Director, the proportion of female customers is growing steadily.

From the online retailer Bstn to the luxury department store KaDeWe – the new retail partners of the season

In order to get started in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, Suicoke Studio called in Pezzetta for help. The Munich sales agency, which also represents hip brands like Aries and Róhe, has “helped the shoe retailer to open new doors for SS22,” says Pasi. It was important for Suicoke to have a sales partner who “knows” such a complex market – like the German one – from the inside and knows which stores the brand suits. Retailers should offer an assortment “of upscale streetwear, luxury and contemporary brands,” Pasi said.

As a result, the brand has been represented by new trading partners since this season, such as the Berlin luxury department store KaDeWe, the Mannheim fashion retailer Engelhorn, the Viennese multi-brand store Steffl and in e-commerce at Bstn. In total, Suicoke has 20 locations in Germany and 300 worldwide.

autumn/winter 22

For Autumn/Winter 22, the more summery models Moto, Depa and Zavo are equipped with faux fur and other weather-suitable materials. In addition, the brand is increasingly focusing on shoes that do not fall into the sandals category and are better suited for cold days. These include the Bowery, a slip-on shoe with a waterproof upper reminiscent of a puffer jacket, and the Pepper boot.

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