TOthey appear almost suspended on the water, yet they exude immediate power and rigor. Not far away, a small rock on which the cormorants in single file decorate the rock outcrop like a crown of black feathers. I am the Castles of Cannero, fascinating fifteenth-century buildings which stand out on two rocky islands off the coast of the Piedmont coast of Lake Maggiorenot far from the Swiss border. The imposing main body and the separate building used as a prison can be reached by motorboat from Cannero Riviera and from Cannobio from the Piedmont side, or from Luino from the Lombard side. They are the latest destination added to the already well-known Terre Borromeofamous for the Bella and Madre islands, for the Rocca di Angera and the Pallavicino Park.
On Lake Maggiore, among pirates and smugglers
Stories of pirates and political strategies are intertwined in the castles of Cannero, starting from the raids of the terrible Mazzardi brothers, known as the Mazzarditi, who took possession of the outpost then called Malapaga and from there carried out violent incursions across the entire Verbano area. The population called for help Filippo Maria Visconti who in 1412 put the Mazzarditi to flight and granted the Cannobia fiefdom to Vitaliano I Borromeoincluding the military garrison which, in 1500, was rebuilt in its current appearance. From the fortress, the Borromeo family dominated and protected against incursions from the North the territory of his State which extended up to the Rocca di Angera, at the southern end of Lake Maggiore. Then, abandonment. Over the centuries, the fortress was invaded by vegetation, becoming a refuge for fishermen and smugglers and also, according to a local legend, home to a gang of counterfeiters.
The Castles of Cannero, a fortress from the 1500s, on the Piedmontese shore of Lake Maggiore. Photo Suzy Midnight
The countess’ room
The ancient outpost was brought to light by a dry restorationalmost rough. Thanks to the documents from the family archive, an important conservative intervention was carried out which reconstructed nothing but only consolidated, entrusting a historical tour to multimedia installations and augmented reality: you visit the fortress guided by a very complete appdiscovering the walkways of the patrol, the kitchen furnaces, the small chapel. What is surprising, in such austerity, is the sweetness of the countess’ room, a small private retreat decorated with delicate frescoes, and the citrus grove. A visit that also stimulates the imagination of the little ones with games Heraldy GamAnd dedicated to them and which invites them to find hidden symbols in the various rooms (info and tickets including navigation on terreborromeo.it).
The ballroom of the Borromeo palace, on Isola Bella. Credits: Garage Raw
Between lights and Baroque
Going south, the localities of Baveno and Feriolo they prepare for the summer party: a Feriolo, from 13 June to 10 July, a holographic fountain of 40 meters lights up every evening at 9.45pm. TO Baveno, from 11 July to 23 August, luminous and musical fountains on 50 meters of lake for three shows each evening. And on August 10th, the night of San Lorenzo, a concert on the water (bavenoturismo.it). In front, in the lake, land Madre and Bella islands have attracted travelers and rulers for centuries, including Napoleon pushed by Joséphine de Beauharnais to visit the Isola Bella of which he had heard wonders. And in fact, in 1630, Carlo III Borromeo had started the work on the Palace with the intention of surprising his distinguished guests.
From above, the island appears like a vessel jutting out into the lake, with the Palace at the bow and the garden, a baroque masterpiece with ten terraces, at the stern. The interior opens with the Alcove gallery, an “entrance” with 135 paintings by court artists, pupils of Titian and Raphael. Followed by the Queen’s Hall dedicated to Maria Christina of Savoy, and the Throne Hall with the Talamoni on the ceiling who discuss among themselves, in an original and rare pose in noble palaces. In 1935, the Hall of Music welcomed the anti-German agreement between the French Foreign Minister Pierre Laval, the British Prime Minister Ramsay MacDonald and the head of the Italian government Benito Mussolini. Then, as is known, nothing happened. Of more rugged beauty is the older palace, built on Isola Madre and surrounded by a garden of exotic and centenary plants.
Isola Bella seen from the lake. Credits: Garage Raw
Barns and witches on Lake Garda
Even the largest of our lakes, Garda, which last year totaled 14 million visitorsin addition to the most famous destinations it offers places less traveled but rich in history and atmosphere. Given for granted, on the Brescia side, the elegance of the stretch that goes from Salò to Riva del Garda with Sirmione and Desenzano, you can focus on a more secluded and surprising area as long as you leave the coast and immerse yourself in the hinterland. You go up from Gargnano, towards Val Vestino, a valley nestled between Lake Garda and Lake Idrodotted with villages, narrow streets and stone houses, where time seems to have stopped. Here nature explodes, the woods become tangled with branches, the canyons recall more exotic places and it is easy to believe stories of witches and elves.
The lakeside of Gargnano, on Lake Garda. (Getty Images)
Lake Valvestino, crystal clear water and turquoise shades, was created by the Ponte Cola dam, built by Enel in 1962 and 124 meters high, still active and powerful, capable of meeting the needs of 30 thousand homes. The waters of the lake incorporate the old Italian customs: the area belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918 and to Trentino until 1934, when the fascist regime imposed its annexation to the province of Brescia. The panoramic point over the entire valley is the San Rocco hill, from which you can admire the peaks of Mount Caplone and Mount Tombea, on whose rocks the delicate one peeps out Saxifraga tombeanensissymbolic flower of Alto Garda Bresciano.
Lake Valvestino. (Getty Images)
In the municipality of Magasaat 1250 meters there is theCima Rest observatorya small dome, which does not disturb the beauty and silence of the place but is equipped with high quality optical instrumentation. It is open to the public almost every Saturday evening from May to September, to admire stars and constellations in an area without light pollution (calendar and reservations: 0365.745060; [email protected]). In this area there are the characteristic old barns with sloping thatched roofs: restored and re-adapted, you can comfortably stay there (info: 347.9072076). Perhaps to undertake one of the many trekking paths (from Cima Rest to Malga Tombea, for example), on routes rich in history, where you can discover the tunnels of the First World War.
The characteristic barns in Val Vestino. (Cube)
A fourteenth-century cloister
Returning to Gargnano through the tortuous Provincial 9 the scenery of the coast opens up: temperate climate, scent of lemons and olive trees. Worth visiting church of S. Francescowith its beautiful fourteenth-century cloister. The small columns that support the arches support capitals decorated with leaves, lemons, oranges, human and animal figures, fish and birds. In the center of the town is the famous Palazzo Feltrinelli, built by the family at the end of the 19th century and donated to the University of Milan. Villa Feltrinelli instead, overlooking the lake and famous for being the last residence of Benito Mussolini during the Italian Social Republic, it is today a luxury hotel with a starred restaurant.
Glimpse of Gargnano; the historic center develops around the port. (Getty Images)
To combine relaxation with the visit, thehotel Stroblhofa resort nestled between the villages of Formaga and Liano, with spectacular views of the lake. Family hotel with reserved spaces for adults and children, spa and gourmet restaurant, has made interaction with the place a strong point: the inhabitants of the neighboring villages were invited to the inauguration, around 3000 people, and the highly informed reception desk is in contact with the municipality of Gargnano to suggest interesting excursions in the surrounding area. Like Val Vestino, in fact, the walk on the paths of Mount Denervo (with different difficulties) toura Muslone, along the ancient roads connecting the villages, up to the Vione waterfall.
The heated swimming pool of the Stroblhof hotel, in Formaga. Photo Hannes Niederkofler
A branch of lemons
The tour of the lemon grovesinstead, leads to the discovery of the glory of this shore of the lake kissed by the sun, but also whipped in winter by the freezing winds and harsh climate: the lemon, the cultivation of which was for centuries a very important economic resource at least until the early twentieth century. Introduced, it is said, by the Franciscans, it was cultivated in structures unique in the world.
The stone structures of an ancient lemon grove on Lake Garda. (Alamy)
From the hotel, in 20 minutes by e-bike you can reach the ancient La Malora lemon housestill active, where the owner family explains how the rock was excavated to obtain terraces which are then covered with wooden and glass frames, in a complex work like a mosaic at high altitude, and irrigated according to an ancient system that exploits a nearby watercourse ( limonaialamalora.it ). Having stocked up on limoncello, jams and various delicacies from the stalls set up under the trees, and having taken a photo from above of the lake framed by a branch of yellow fruits, upon returning the Stoblhof offers an aperitif or a dip in the heated infinity pool with a spectacular view of the lake. Or the Aufguss ritual, with the sauna master pouring blocks of ice mixed with essential oils onto the hot stones: the hot steam rises, relaxation is guaranteed.
Lake Maggiore
Where to sleep
Hotel Delfinol, Isola Bella
First guesthouse of the Borromeo palace and then hotel for travellers, it reopens after a long restoration aimed at reviving the ancient village. It offers two suites, with independent access next to a lush greenhouse. On the mezzanine floor, the restaurant of the same name offers a bistro menu starting from 35 euros; upstairs and on the terrace, sophisticated dishes such as risotto and lake fish with a Piedmontese “accent”.
Where to Eat
Shop stove with kitchen, Vicolo del Fornello, Isola Bella
In the heart of the island, where the fishermen’s houses once stood (the nets were cooked in the stove), traditional Italian dishes to be enjoyed on the beautiful lakeside terrace.
Exotic plants and animals in the Isola Madre garden: spread over 8 hectares, it is the largest of the Borromean Islands. Credits: Dario Fusaro
Lake Garda
Where to sleep
Villa Feltrinellivia Rimembranza 38, Gargnano.
On the shores of the lake, luxury hotel with period furnishings and frescoes. In addition to the elegant rooms, it also has cottages and suites scattered around the centuries-old park in which it is immersed. 2-star restaurant by chef Stefano Baiocco.
Hotel Stoblhof, via della Quiete 50, Formaga.
Modern design and spectacular lake view, the hotel combines relaxation for couples and activities for families: the wellness area is separate, also equipped with a specific swimming pool for children and babies. The gourmet cuisine combines flavors of the Garda area with influences from the South Tyrolean tradition, the area of origin of the owner family. The three-quarter pension formula is also available.