THEMakeup is no longer just an aesthetic gesture, it can become prevention, protection, even a health tool. He explains it in his new book la Professor Pucci Romanodermatologist, science communicator and President Skineco. In “There is a trick” (Heisenberg Publisher) faces the world of cosmetics with an approach far from both aggressive marketing and the superficial aesthetics of social networks.
Makeup: the consequences on the skin
In an era in which TikTok and Instagram transform every beauty product into a viral phenomenon, Professor Romano brings the debate back to more concrete ground: the quality of formulations, skin health and consumer awareness. «The skin reacts, absorbs, rejects, communicates», underlines the author, recalling how every product applied to the face interacts with the skin balance. This is why “ecodermocompatibility”, i.e. make-up formulated to respect the physiology of the skin and its microbiota, is truly fundamental. The volume addresses increasingly current questions: how to really read an INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)? How to distinguish a well-formulated product from one built solely on marketing? How much do influencers and viral trends impact our choices? And above all what happens to the skin when we use unsuitable cosmetics for years? The damage is almost never immediate, but cumulative. «The skin can withstand aggression, it is resistant, it is very patient, but if it is attacked every day, perhaps for years, with the wrong or harmful products, even the most resilient one cannot cope», continues the expert.
Harmful cosmetics: from the past to the present day
The book alternates dermatological disclosure, history of cosmetics and cultural reflections on the relationship between identity and make-up. One of the sections is dedicated to the “dangerous cosmetics of the past”, where the author reconstructs centuries of toxic aesthetic practices: from the lead white used by Elizabeth I Tudor to cover smallpox scars, up to the cosmetics based on arsenic, mercury and thallium widespread between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The historical reconstruction does not only serve to arouse curiosity, but above all to show how the desire for perfection has often prevailed over security. «The desire for immediate perfection oriented her towards spectacular but toxic solutions», observes Professor Romano speaking of the cosmetics used in past centuries. From here the parallel with the present is inevitable. Today we no longer use lead or mercury, but there is the risk of relying on aggressive products or poorly formulated stay real. Some contemporary trends end up in the spotlight: ultra long-lasting foundations, glitter containing microplastics, “plumping” lipsticks based on the irritation of the mucous membranes, viral kajals advertised as harmless even for sensitive eyes.
Trick: stop the logic of social media, yes to the “precautionary principle”
«Social media have sparked strong attention to self-care, but they become critical when they promise false goals, amazing results, very rapid response times», warns Professor Romano. The central theme therefore becomes the ability to develop critical tools. We must learn to read the ingredients present in the INCI and rely on the “Precautionary Principle”. «There is no such thing as “safe” by law. Security is a dynamic concept: what is permitted and authorized today may no longer be so tomorrow. Here’s why consumer education becomes necessary to reduce the risk of being exposed to unwanted substances. And another ally that we must consider is the “Precautionary Principle”, which does not only concern cosmetics, but all sectors, from construction to the food world. In summary: I have no scientific evidence but I have a category of criticized substances in front of me, are you talking? When in doubt, don’t use them» warns Professor Romano.
Credits: Heisenberg Publisher
Makeup: the relationship with oneself
There is also a psychological reflection on makeup as a form of personal expression. Make-up tells about identity, emotions and even the relationship with oneself. «On some days it can represent armor, on others it is like a caress», adds the author and identifies four large “categories” of make-up: covering, natural, identifying and functional. And it is precisely the latter that represents the future, a make-up that is not limited to coloring but which integrates active ingredients useful for the skin, such as antioxidants, soothing and photoprotectors. The make-up of the future will have to increasingly dialogue with dermatology, sustainability and health. It will no longer be enough to ask whether a product “works” from an aesthetic point of view, it will be necessary to understand whether it is respectful of the skin and the environment.
Stop the idea of perfection
«Perfection does not exist and not even the make-up that makes us perfect exists. This is a very important awareness that certainly favors a balanced relationship with one’s image. In short, makeup must not transform or hide at all costs, but enhance without altering. The most advanced cosmetic is not the one that transforms, covers or camouflages, but the one that knows how to intelligently reveal and enhance what already exists». Professor Romano, therefore, does not demonize make-up, does not trivialize it and does not limit herself to chasing the rhetoric of natural beauty. Instead, he proposes a more conscious approach, in which aesthetics, health and personal identity finally stop being separate worlds and they dialogue to guarantee the beauty and well-being of the person.
