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With its origins in workwear, denim is often considered the basis for a simple everyday uniform, in which width, length and decorations usually represent the greatest extremes. However, the robust material offers more flexibility than might first be expected.

Instead of the age-old question of whether women should wear tight or loose trousers this winter, the designers from London to New York also presented some special pieces that make traditional jeans look old like stonewashing.

Special jackets

FW26 (from left to right): Diesel, Anrealage and Di Petsa Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The denim jacket is a real classic that has changed over the past decades mainly through different colors, different lengths and customization such as embroidery and patches. But such a piece also has much more to offer than just being a simple transitional jacket, and the designers prove this in their FW26 collections.

FW26 (from left to right): Burc Aykol, Balenciaga and Diesel
FW26 (from left to right): Burc Aykol, Balenciaga and Diesel Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The options range from a very large collar that is almost wrapped around the neck like a towel, to additional epaulettes and ruffles, to asymmetrical cuts and layers. A knee-length coat with ruffles, a rocky, extremely shortened version with long sleeves and an elegant version with an additional denim train were also seen.

Adaptable

FW26 (from left to right): Stella McCartney, Tibi, Eckhaus Latta and JW Anderson
FW26 (from left to right): Stella McCartney, Tibi, Eckhaus Latta and JW Anderson Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

But it’s not just the denim jackets that stand out from the crowd this season, trousers and skirts also offer some options beyond the usual models. The focus is particularly on adaptability.

The designers show various possibilities for convertible pieces with different styling options. The British fashion designer Stella McCartney shows a pair of jeans that have two vertical zippers that run from the waistband down the entire leg. This means that the silhouette can be adjusted symmetrically on both legs or asymmetrically on one side. New York brand Eckhaus Latta, meanwhile, plays with multiple layers, with two long jeans legs with cut-outs at the crotch layered over a pair of skimpy shorts, to which they are also attached. But a kind of loincloth over long jeans from the US brand Tibi and a piece from the British brand JW Anderson, which moves between a skirt and capri pants with additional layers, also offer extra scope.

Between palazzo pants and long skirts

FW26 (from left to right): Diesel, Masha Popova, Private Policy and 7 For All Mankind
FW26 (from left to right): Diesel, Masha Popova, Private Policy and 7 For All Mankind Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The wearer gets even more oomph by choosing a long denim skirt – from high to low waist – or wide palazzo trousers. With the different jeans looks, it’s sometimes difficult to tell whether it’s two wide trouser legs or just one skirt opening.

Other brands like Masha Popova play more with a similar shape. The London-based label combines regular jeans with a wide, floor-length train, imitating the silhouette of the skirts and palazzo trousers.

Mini

FW26 (from left to right): Keburia, Diesel and 7 For All Mankind Keburia
FW26 (from left to right): Keburia, Diesel and 7 For All Mankind Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A long train is also used by the US jeans brand 7 For All Mankind, but in combination with a very tight pencil miniskirt. This is combined with a matching denim jacket and dark tights.

Overall, the motto for fall/winter 26 seems to be that when skirts get shorter, at least a long sleeve is worn on top. This is also how the brands Keburia and Diesel present it, who send a pleated skirt or extremely short shorts without legs onto the catwalk.

floral ornaments

FW26 (from left to right): Ermanno Scervino, Blumarine and Cucculelli Shaheen
FW26 (from left to right): Ermanno Scervino, Blumarine and Cucculelli Shaheen Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A real classic and a recurring trend is the floral pattern, which once again decorates some jeans and jackets this season. What was noticeable, however, was that a subtle pattern was hardly an option in most cases. In many models, the fauna climbed up the leg of the jeans or was repeated over a large area throughout the entire piece. The styles range from subtle embroidery and prints in one color to full colors and magnificent details.

FW26 (from left to right): Antonio Marras, Masha Popova and Roberto Cavalli
FW26 (from left to right): Antonio Marras, Masha Popova and Roberto Cavalli Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

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