When the one-day classics around the Tour of Flanders come up in spring, the cycling nation of Belgium is in a state of emergency.
Jonas Heyerick blushes slightly as he sits down on his swivel chair in the study. Things even look tidier here than usual, he says. His four sports bikes are leaning against the bookshelf. Otherwise there would be no room for them in his house, grins the editor-in-chief of the cycling magazine “Bahamontes”.
There are dozens and dozens of cycling books on the shelf, especially biographies, including some written by the Fleming himself. In his world everything seems to revolve around cycling. He used to cover racing for a Flemish daily newspaper. In Flanders, the cycling stars are not found on the third page of the sports section, they adorn the front pages of the major newspapers. How can you describe the relationship of Belgians to cycling? Heyerick scratches his beard: “It’s a religion.”
And of course a religion also needs its holy scripture. “We are the Bible for cycling fans”he announces proudly. In 2013 he founded “Bahamontes” with friends. Long stories, big pictures. The name is inspired by former Spanish Tour de France winner Federico Bahamontes, perhaps the best mountain rider in history. He died in 2023 at the age of 95.
The largest bonfire in Belgium
In Belgium, cycling is popular all year round. Apart from the road season, several cross-country races take place weekly in Belgian communities in autumn and winter. After the big three-week tours in France, Italy and Spain, the so-called monuments, the five biggest one-day classics, have the highest status in cycling. Two of them take place in Belgium. At the end of April Liège-Bastogne-Liège – and before that, on Easter Sunday, the Tour of Flanders. The Ronde van Vlaanderen is the highlight for Belgian, especially Flemish, cycling aficionados. “Everyone takes to the streets. Those who aren’t there stay at home, watch TV, eat a Mattentaart and drink a beer. It’s a very special holiday“, says Jonas Heyerick.
Tadej Pogačar (center) won the Tour of Flanders last year.
Last year, according to the organizers, a million spectators were on the streets cheering on the athletes. Belgium has a total of eleven million inhabitants. Many of them gather at the so-called Kötenbeters. These are the very short but very steep climbs in the Flemish Ardennes. The Koppenberg, the Paterberg or the Alte Quaremont, for example.
While favorites like Tadej Pogačar, Mathieu van der Poel or local hero Wout van Aert fly like jets over the cobblestone passages, some of which are 20 percent steep, the fans stand in several rows, sing and chant. “Of course there are also a lot of people who don’t care at all about who wins the race. They’re there for the drinks, for the party, to be there, because everyone is there.”says Heyerick. Some families also take their picnic with them. The “Ronde” is also a family outing. At least when the weather is good.
Where cycling, beer and champagne come together
Brakel is a good 45 kilometers west of Brussels. A manageable town with 15,000 inhabitants. Year after year, the Tour of Flanders peloton passes by on the main road. And every time Herman de Croo, now 88, puts a large sign in front of his garden that says “Herman de Croo greets the drivers.” Herman de Croo was several times a minister and confidant of the former King Albert II.
Herman (l.) and Alexander De Croo
Herman’s son Alexander de Croo lives just a few houses away. He even became prime minister. 2020 to 2025. The Liberal lost the last election and is now the head of the United Nations Development Program. He recently gave up the mayoralty of Brakel. 60 cycling races take place in the community every year. More than one a week. “No other country does it like we do. For me it’s the sport that combines bikes, beer and champagne”says De Croo.
The “Flandrien” is a state of mind
In Belgium, many politicians appear on racing bikes or off the track. Especially in the cycling pilgrimage sites of Flanders. This is obviously not just for campaign reasons for him, but is based on a real passion. The former prime minister pulls up the sleeves of his brown sweater. The liberal former head of government is more of a traditionalist, even romantic, when it comes to cycling. When it comes to the Tour de France, one thing is clear: If you want to wear the yellow jersey on the Champs-Élysées, you actually have to be good at everything, but above all you have to ride up mountains quickly. If you want to win races in Flanders, you usually need different requirements. “The ‘Flandrien’ is not necessarily a Flemish. The ‘Flandrien’ is more of a state of mind,” says the politician philosophically.
The “Flandriens” are tough riders who excel in difficult conditions. In spring, when it is raining and cold and there is a strong wind. But they also survive in the fight against the terrain. “Here in the region one small hill follows the next, often on cobblestones, often on roads in poor condition,” explains de Croo. And then there is this quality that in Spanish is called “la grinta”: “So that you show character: me against the elements.“
Mathieu van der Poel, Mads Pedersen and Wout van Aert (from left) at the Tour of Flanders 2025
Only since the organizers changed the course of the “Ronde” and made it more “mountain-heavy” have riders like four-time Tour winner Tadej Pogačar had a chance. De Croo understands that, but is more of a fan of the old track. This was more unpredictable.
The racing bike is mounted on a home trainer in the former prime minister’s garage. A German brand. De Croo smiles. Every year he rides the route with thousands of other amateur cyclists on the day before the Tour of Flanders. He estimates that a good half of the challenge participants are not Belgian: “There are Australians and Americans who, when they drive up to the cobblestones, look around and ask: What is that?”
The bike in your stomach
A few kilometers south of Brussels, near the small town of Hal, there is a tall brick house. Outside, on the grassy area, there are several round tables. Sara, the owner of the café, comes outside with the cups filled with lattes. “You also have the bike in your stomach”says Jean-Marie Wampers about the owners of the café “Den trap in de boter”. An expression that means something like that someone was born on a bicycle.
Jean-Marie Wampers speaks what he calls “Jean-Marie Pfaff German”. His family comes from Maasmechelen, where a Dutch dialect that is very reminiscent of German is spoken. Wampers used to be a force of nature on the bike. 1.88 meters tall, formerly 80, sometimes weighing 82 kilos. A giant, at least compared to the other drivers.
In 1989, Wampers, who was born in Uccle, south of Brussels, achieved his greatest success: he won Paris-Roubaix, the so-called Hell of the North, the greatest of all the classics. He is the prime example of a “Flandrien”. Even if his best result at the Tour of Flanders was “only” ninth place.
Although he is now 68 years old and ended his career in 1992, he is still fit. Broad shoulders, thin stomach. He still rides his racing bike several times a week. There are over ten bikes at home. His son runs a shop in Halle. He simply chooses the bikes that he likes. In cycling, says Wampers, everything has changed since his time. “We were amateurs back then”says Wampers, modestly and seriously.
Ali, Pele and Merckx
The gifted storyteller tells how he went to races himself in the 80s or how he had to wash his equipment in the bathtub next to his roommate, the then world champion Claude Criquielion, after a 240-kilometer stage in the Tour de France. Nowadays, great talents become professionals at the age of 18. In Wamper’s time, young Belgians were only allowed to sign a contract at the age of 23. Before that, military service was compulsory. But at the age of 21, Wampers had a groundbreaking encounter in the municipality of Meise, twelve kilometers north of Brussels.
“When I first saw Eddy Merckx in front of me, he took my measurements and had a bike made for me. And sure enough, 15 days later I won the Belgian amateur championship on this new bike,” says Wampers. Boxing had Muhammad Ali, football had Pelé and cycling had Eddy Merckx, called the cannibal. Merckx probably still has as much authority in Belgium as King Philippe. The former prime minister and president of the European Council once called Merckx “Belgium’s greatest ambassador.” For Jean-Marie Wampers, Merckx opened a door into the big, wide world of cycling. He received a letter from Italy and showed it to Merckx. He just said: “You don’t even have to read that, just sign it down there!” Wampers turned professional. Earlier than many of his compatriots.
After the former professional leaves the café, the owners Sara and Bert buy him a coke. While Sara serves the guests, Bert takes care of the dishes. He then points to the racing bike that is hung directly above the counter. Fire red with white handlebar tape. The start number is still attached. In 1976, like every year, a small race took place in town, a week before the road world championship. Freddy Maertens, then 24, was already a minor star and Sara’s parents, who ran the farm, allowed him to change in their bathroom. Maertens then promised that he would give them his racing bike as a thank you if he became world champion in Italy a week later. In fact, the Fleming won.
Bert looks up proudly. He and his wife Sara aren’t the only ones who seem to have been born riding bicycles. After many decades of success, cycling in Belgium seems to be as popular as ever. And everyone can see this for themselves on Sunday, when over a million people sit down around the largest Belgian campfire, the “Ronde van Vlaanderen”.
