For his first fashion show at the helm of Balmain, French designer Antonin Tron presented a rocking and sensual collection on Wednesday. It followed on from the work of his predecessor Olivier Rousteing. The presentation took place on the third day of Paris Fashion Week, dedicated to women’s fashion for Fall/Winter 2026.
As a tribute to Pierre Balmain’s passion for cinema, the fashion show was staged in a building in the 14th arrondissement of Paris. The final scene of the 1960 film Out of Breath by Jean-Luc Godard with Jean-Paul Belmondo was filmed there. The big ladies of the film world, actresses Naomi Watts and Diane Kruger, sat in the front row.
The Balmain fashion house was shaped by Olivier Rousteing for 14 years. During this time, commercially successful glamor on the red carpets became his trademark. Antonin Tron, founder of the Atlein brand, previously worked at Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga. He was named artistic director of Balmain at the end of November, just a week after Rousteing’s surprise departure.
His first fashion show marked a clear break with the past. The silhouettes were less restrictive, the models moved confidently and freely. The collection was strongly focused on ready-to-wear, almost all looks are suitable for everyday use.
Hunting color palette by Dries Van Noten
For Dries Van Noten, the fashion for the coming winter made him long for a cozy tea in the English countryside. Tweed suits, feather-light down jackets and enveloping trench coats were shown. Long satin skirts completed the looks. The color palette was reminiscent of hunting and a fireplace.
Creative director Julian Klausner was appointed in December 2024. He takes over a fashion house that has remained true to the poetic vision of its founder. This vision was sometimes far from the commercial standards of the market, but was adored by the most discerning fashion connoisseurs.
Courrèges more reserved
Previously in the Paris fashion show marathon, a taboo was once again broken at Courrèges. The visually unchic combination of navy blue and black has been reinterpreted for the coming winter. It has been mixed in all materials, from leather-cotton to knit-leather. Of note was the famous “Olsen Tuck,” a reference to the Olsen sisters’ trendy brand. A maxi collar is pulled up, which pinches the hair and gives the impression of a woman in a hurry.
The iconic French brand from the 1970s has been revived by stylist Nicolas Di Felice. On Wednesday she presented a fashion show that was much more reserved than usual – both in the scenography and in the room and among the invited guests. This raised questions about the financial health of its investor, the Pinault family’s holding company Artemis.
This is even more true since Artemis’ other fashion house, the Parisian label Giambattista Valli, has also secretly canceled its fashion show this season. The company refused to provide any information about its current situation.
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