Logo fanny packs and double G-thongs – Gucci celebrates street style

The good intentions and feelings are there. “This, my first fashion show for Gucci, introduces a universe of people, archetypes, consumers and dress codes that will inspire my creative language for the future. It is a beginning, but already mature and full of intention,” writes Demna Gvasalia, creative director of the Italian fashion house, in the show notes for its runway debut on Friday. But as we all know, it’s the numbers that count.

In these complicated times, to put it mildly, sales count. The history of the Italian fashion house has suffered a setback in recent years, after incredible growth season after season. In 2025, Gucci will remain the most important indicator of the development of the French group Kering, with around 40 percent of sales. In the year, the fashion house recorded a decline of 19 percent on a like-for-like basis.

While the brand’s logo and story are important and meaningful, they alone are not enough. The creative management and the language of the label must learn to address an “old” and a new customer base again. They are becoming less and less brand-conscious and are increasingly distracted by countless other stimuli. It takes a strong, clear identity. What emerges from analysis and reports on luxury is that buyers do not compromise. This is especially true for those who think they can easily win with their name, story and logo.

Collection is based on pragmatism

Kate Moss, who returns to the catwalk at the age of 52, is sure to cause a stir. She closed the show of Gvasalia’s highly anticipated runway debut for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. She wore a sparkling black dress with a low back neckline, which was accentuated by a thong with the double G made of white gold. This is set with ten carats of diamonds.

The sensuality of the seamless mini dress made of bright white hosiery material, which is worn with the attitude of a femme fatale, certainly helps. All of this contributes to the brand’s opening up to diverse clothing styles. This is certainly politically correct and the right way to avoid upsetting anyone.

The jackets are alternately combined with skirts, leggings and trousers. They “move effortlessly between the office, the bar and everything in between,” as the press release states. “This collection and, more generally, my vision for Gucci are based on a principle of pragmatism. It is about creating desirable and authentic objects that accompany different people, enriching their everyday lives and making them feel good. Products that stand for themselves and assert themselves by what they are, without needing pseudo-intellectual justifications,” explains the brand’s creative director. In a few months, the luxury group Kering will assess the desirability of these objects. Then it will become clear whether the flagship brand is back on track.

Meanwhile, the brand’s soft and fluid tailoring is influenced by a “streetwear sensibility,” the statement continued. On the catwalk, the immaculate and tailored suits were followed by light jeans. There were also skin-tight men’s T-shirts that emphasized the models’ six-pack abs. Sheath dresses hug the body like a second skin and leave little room for imagination. Logo fanny packs are worn over the shoulder, while a model even stops as if on the street to respond to the latest “WhatsApp message.” In short, the catwalk flirts with street style all around. Nevertheless, neither the house’s iconic bags nor the suits nor the necessary color are missing.

The ‘Gucci Bamboo 1947’ is reinterpreted with a slimmer volume. The ‘Bamboo’ handle consists of composite, flexible leather segments. The archive minaudières are extended to accommodate smartphones and essentials. The ‘Manhattan’, the first sneaker designed by Gvasalia for Gucci, combines an ultra-minimal basketball shape with the slip-on practicality of a moccasin.

There is also the green light for leggings that merge with trousers. Jackets and tops are integrated into a single, ultra-tight garment. Shoes merge leather shoes and sneakers into a unique silhouette with the aerodynamics of a sports car, i.e. with very long and pointed toes.