Mantù is expanding into Germany. Angela Picozzi’s Italian ready-to-wear label has secured the Munich-based Die Kaufleute showroom as a partner for the German-speaking market. A strategic move for a brand that has been established in the USA and Japan for over a decade and is represented in 75 to 80 points of sale worldwide.
Strategic expansion into Germany
Mantù’s entry into the German-speaking market is the next logical step after the USA, Japan and initial successes in the Arabic region. However, the partnership with the Die Kaufleute Showroom came about almost by chance. Picozzi said they originally met the Munich agency about another project.
The decision was not made arbitrarily, but because the consumer base fits Mantù’s philosophy perfectly: “Quality-oriented, demanding and appreciative of subtle luxury,” says Picozzi. However, nothing is rushed when it comes to establishing a presence in Germany. “If the market is ready and we have the right partner, there is no reason to rush and make mistakes. We need stability and sustainable growth.”
In addition to Germany, other markets are also in focus. The collaboration with Maison Pyramide for the Arabic market is already underway, and the Netherlands is also planned. China and Malaysia are on the radar, but it is still too early. “We first have to understand these markets,” says Picozzi.
The brand has been gaining initial experience in markets beyond its home country for years. The expansion began over a decade ago in the United States, with Japan following shortly thereafter. Both markets are still the most important for Mantù today. “The US was very open to us. Customers valued our story and understood the difference between what we do and what other brands do. Japan was similar. These markets value quality, attention to detail and the story behind the product.”
Interestingly, Italy is a difficult market for Mantù. “In Italy, customers give the brand a lot of appreciation, but it is not yet well known,” explains Picozzi. Collaborations with multi-brand stores – in Capri, Portofino, Naples and Cipriani in Venice – are now aiming to change that.
A family legacy: From Margiela to Mantù
Picozzi’s mother Graziella is considered one of the most influential technical patternmakers of her generation. Her expertise was crucial to Martin Margiela’s work in his early solo career. After previously founding her own brand Deni Cler, she brought Margiela on board as a consultant in 1988. At the time, Margiela desperately needed a right-hand man who could translate his groundbreaking designs into actual garments.
“Even if you have good designers but only bad pattern makers, nothing right will come out of it,” reflects Picozzi in an interview with FashionUnited. This philosophy became the foundation for Castor Fashion, the prototyping and production company she later founded in Mantua – about 45 kilometers from Verona.
Combining craftsmanship with industrial precision, Castor offers design, prototyping and full production services for fashion collections made in Italy. The customers all come from the luxury segment and include names such as Elie Saab, Gabriela Hearst, Giambattista Valli and Longchamp. The company has recently seen double-digit growth, with an average increase of 30 percent in recent years – at a time when many luxury brands are struggling. “We stay true to our values. We don’t deceive people. We guarantee quality,” says Picozzi, explaining the success.
A strategic partnership with an industrial group also enables Castor to completely verticalize products – from yarn to finished garments – and thus find solutions to price problems without compromising quality. “What we offer is not just manufacturing, it is the translation of ideas into a product that works in the real market,” says the managing director.
In addition to production in Italy, the company also works with partners in Europe, such as Albania. “We prefer a correctly made Made in Europe to a Made in Italy that is not a real Made in Italy,” emphasizes Picozzi.
Mantù: The brand with the secret ingredient
In this environment, Mantù 2008 was born, a label that reflects both Castor’s technical mastery and Picozzi’s desire to create a brand that connects with the end customer. The label is based on the philosophy of combining creativity with practicality. Picozzi emphasizes that Mantù is designed for real women, with pieces that are wearable, well-tailored and elegantly understated. She describes the fit as the brand’s “secret ingredient”: “If you don’t try it on, you can’t see it.”
This attention to detail goes so far that Mantù adapts the cuts for different markets. “In Japan the necklines have to be higher, in America they want a different fit.” This close connection between product development and market knowledge is unusual in the industry. “Normally patternmakers are not connected to the market or the end customer. That is our strength.”
This is made possible by the mutually reinforcing relationship between Mantù and Castor. Mantù provides insights into consumer preferences and market trends, while Castor ensures technical precision and reliability in production. “Mantù learned from Castor that attention to the end customer is crucial and that presentation is important. Castor learned from Mantù that garments must arrive on time for stores to sell them.” “What you buy and what you see is the price you get,” says Picozzi, explaining the transparency philosophy. Mantù adapts to rising costs by carefully selecting fabrics, offering entry-level options and optimizing production processes. “Fabric prices have risen sharply, but we know how to deal with it. Quality remains our priority.”
Moving forward, Mantù continues to focus on wholesale partnerships, selectively explores online sales, and plans to open retail stores with strategic investors. “The main goal is to work with customers who are solid, who buy and sell the product. Healthy, reliable growth is the priority. We go to retailers and explain why the product exists and what makes it special. Otherwise it’s just another label on the shelf.”
