THE‘asphalt shiny with rain, the buzz of night buses and that feeling of perpetual transformation that only London can provide. Under the industrial arches of Old Billingsgate, a historic fish market overlooking the Thames, Daniel Lee stages a visceral homage to the British metropolis with the parade Burberry Autumn-Winter 2026/2027. More than a collectiona hyper-real portrait of a “work in progress” city, represented by a Tower Bridge surreal wrapped in scaffolding and lapped by artificial resin puddles.
Burberry FW 2026/2027: trench coat between heritage and new femininity
On the occasion of 170th anniversary of the brand, the creative center of gravity could only be the trench coat. Daniel Lee deconstructs its military rigidity to explore a new, more fluid and sophisticated “urban currency”. If the origin of the garment is openly male, Burberry’s new grammar intervenes on the structure adding ruffles and ruffled collars which soften the silhouette. There faille and silk poplin transform the raincoat into an object of desire which moves naturally between everyday rigor and sartorial sophistication.
Burberry FW 2026/2027 collection fashion show at London Fashion Week. (Photo by Lucy North/PA Images via Getty Images)
The “Going-out coat”: the elegance of the London night
In London the coat is never just a functional garment, but the true protagonist of the evening look. Lee works on this urban evidence by proposing the coat-dress: volumes that slide over the body and reveal light layers of pleated and silk, designed to transition effortlessly from the office to a movie premiere or nightclub. On the notes of FKA twigsthe catwalk celebrates garments that can defy winter without giving up glamour, where practicality ultimately becomes a form of identity.
Disturbed codes: the check and the archive map
Burberry’s iconic check is going through a reworking process material that Lee defines as “glitched”. The historical motif is disturbed, hand-woven on traditional looms with strips of leather or repurposed in coated jacquard. It affects the use of one cartographic printing recovered from the archives, a map of London that wraps the outerwear transforming them into sentimental posters of the city. The palette remains anchored to deep and nocturnal tones: ink blue, burgundy and blackilluminated by iridescent reflections that evoke the lights of street lamps on street oil.
Burberry FW 2026/2027 collection fashion show at London Fashion Week. (Photo by Lucy North/PA Images via Getty Images)
A parterre of icons on the Burberry front row
If on the catwalk the presence of Romeo Beckham catalyses the attention of the flashes, the Burberry front row confirms itself as a mosaic of British culture and global faces. The most awaited appearance is that of Kate Mosssitting next to her daughter Lila. A sort of passing of the baton of British aesthetics. Among the guests, a varied parterre that ranges from the cinema of Jason Statham And Kristin Scott Thomas to sport with Declan Ricesealing Daniel Lee’s vision. An elegance that finds its vital spark in the tension between the history of the maison and the thrill of nocturnal youth.
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