During the recent GS1 – WAIR 24h Circular Fashion Journey, Hans Robben, program manager of The Renewal Workshop at Bleckmann, presented a pragmatic vision of circularity. The Dutch logistics service provider, now in existence for one hundred and sixty years, is transforming from a linear ‘box mover’ to a crucial partner in the circular chain. Robben emphasized that circularity is no longer an afterthought, but an essential part of future business strategy.
Legislation as a complex catalyst
The fashion industry is faced with a flood of EU laws. These include eco-design requirements, the ban on the destruction of unsold goods and extended producer responsibility (EPR). According to Robben, the industry is currently experiencing some slowdown due to complexity. With 27 Member States implementing the rules at different paces, it is challenging for brands to navigate this environment. The digital product passport (DPP) becomes an indispensable instrument for compliance and transparency.
The 360-degree journey of consumers
Modern consumers expect a hybrid shopping experience. Robben explains that in the future, customers will want to combine new items, second-hand fashion and rental clothing in a single shopping cart. An innovative development is the ‘trade-in’ process at the checkout. Here, consumers can directly return an old item to reduce the value of their new purchase. Brands need to bring these different flows of goods together to ensure a seamless customer experience.
Profitable entry with damaged returns
For brands that face hurdles in getting started with circularity, Robben recommends starting with damaged returns. Bleckmann calls this service the ‘rescue’ service. On average, 30 percent of shipments are returned, of which up to 10 percent are damaged.
“We have never seen a business case where this has led to a negative outcome,” says Robben.
About 50 percent of these items can be restored to A quality and sold at full retail price. This directly frees up capital for further circular initiatives.
Operational excellence and data collection
The process of giving clothing a second life is labor intensive. At the center in Almelo, the items undergo quality controls, repairs, cleaning and ozone treatment to remove bacteria. Since many products do not yet have a DPP, manual data entry is required for resale. Robben emphasizes that unique identification at the item level rather than the SKU level can dramatically reduce operational costs in the circular phase.
The digital product passport as a tool for cost reduction
Robben sees the DPP not just as an obligation, but as an enabler. The passport may contain repair instructions and a bill of materials. This means repairers know exactly which zipper or button is needed. He also acts as a storyteller, recording the entire history of a garment, including previous repairs.
Conclusion
The change towards a circular model is inevitable. Within three years, 20 to 30 percent of wardrobes are expected to consist of second-hand items. By starting small and repairing damaged inventory, fashion brands can create immediate economic value. At the same time, they meet the upcoming legal requirements. The integration of logistics, data and repairs under one roof is the key to success.
This article was created using digital tools translated.
FashionUnited uses artificial intelligence to speed up the translation of articles and improve the end result. They help us to make FashionUnited’s international reporting quickly and comprehensively accessible to a German-speaking readership. Articles translated using AI-based tools are proofread and carefully edited by our editors before they are published. If you have any questions or comments, please email [email protected]
