The renowned British trend analyst Lucie Greene gave an outlook on the spring/summer 2027 season in an interview with FashionUnited. She sees the first signs of a revival of the strong luxury brands. However, these occur very differently than in previous years.
“The luxury industry has been in a kind of whirlpool,” explains the founder of the Light Years agency, given the recent period that has been characterized by instability rather than creative clarity. A crucial factor here was the constant change of creative directors, which prevented long-term visions and diluted the identity of brands.
Luxury in transition and the mid- to high-end segment as a “sweet spot”
Greene argues that luxury has been undermined by what she calls “tremendous inflation,” fueled by a focus on emerging markets and ultra-high-net-worth consumers. This strategy has displaced a middle group of wealthy consumers, including the so-called HENRYs (High Earners, Not Rich Yet). “Luxury brands are simply overpriced,” she states.
This gap has created space elsewhere. Greene points to a significant appreciation in the high street and contemporary segment. She names brands like COS, Arket and Zara as well as labels like Aligne, Rixo, ME+EM and Rise & Fall. These are increasingly positioning themselves as high-quality yet affordable alternatives. She believes the area between high street and luxury represents the biggest opportunity. “That mid to high end segment is the sweet spot at the moment.”
At the same time, Greene sees the first signs that there are opportunities again in the luxury segment itself because the industry is entering a phase of realignment. “What I’m seeing now is a real focus on creativity,” she explains. Brands would begin to move away from the strict focus on status, logos and prices.
Consumers are turning away from trends and choosing brands with which they identify
In general, Greene believes that the way consumers choose fashion has fundamentally changed. “There was a real shift away from trends,” she says. Instead of relying on seasonal silhouettes or fleeting aesthetics, consumers are increasingly identifying with brands that have integrity, a clear philosophy and a strong core product. Trends, Greene continued, are associated with acceleration and abundance. Brands that “do one thing really well” appeared more relevant in a more critical consumer climate.
This change is particularly visible among wealthy millennials, who are one of the most important target groups in fashion today. They place less value on traditional brand status. Instead, they prioritize perceived integrity – high-quality materials, thoughtful design and long-lasting products. “Buy less, but buy better,” is how Greene sums up this attitude.
There are some seasonal trend items, like the currently ubiquitous bandanas, she notes. “But these also have a timeless quality – they’re more of a basic than the old ‘in/out’ trends of yesteryear.”
Concrete values: Material innovation as a new benchmark for quality
While sustainability remains an issue, Greene argues that it is no longer the main argument for consumers to make a purchase. “It is important to consumers that products are manufactured responsibly,” she says. “But the focus has really shifted to the material value.” The focus is now on material innovation, performance and quality – especially when it comes to well-designed basics.
The growing demand for knitwear, particularly cashmere, underscores this shift. The increasing presence of brands in the mid-price segment and in the high street sector is also an indicator. Greene also points to brands like Patagonia, Sweaty Betty, Arc’teryx, Acronym and Vollebak, where material innovation underpins credibility. Here functionality is a core value and not just a marketing statement. The innovative fabrics are integral parts of the product itself, rather than being communicated through sustainability messages.
Looking to the future, Greene sees an increasingly important role for high-tech and biotech materials. This is especially true as interest in wellness, outdoor lifestyles and performance continues to grow. “I think the innovation comes from a greater influence of outdoor activities and the fusion with the sports sector. But it’s also about creating clothing that looks formal but offers extra comfort and stretch.”
Retail is moving away from pure sales
Fundamentally, the function of the store has also changed due to these changes. “I don’t think people go to stores to buy a product anymore,” Greene notes. Stores now function less as transaction places and more as places where brands can be experienced directly. Brick-and-mortar retail has become a space for discovery, learning and immersion.
Today, brands are increasingly positioning themselves as creators of culture and lifestyle. Greene cites Aimé Leon Dore as an illustrative example. The fashion label expanded its universe to include a café and even a streamed radio station. These hybrid concepts reflected a more fluid, multidisciplinary approach to retail, she explains. Here fashion overlaps with culture, lifestyle and categories such as living and furnishing. This development is becoming increasingly clear in the fashion media and in retail. The trade magazine Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) recently created a dedicated editorial position for the Home section, she points out.
Further impulses for the spring/summer 2027 season
On topic Inclusivity According to Greene, the industry is at a crossroads. After years of embracing different body shapes as a key value, which was “closely linked to the rise of direct-to-consumer brands,” she now questions whether this momentum will continue. This is due to changing healthcare narratives and the growing presence of GLP-1 drugs such as Ozempic.
Resale continues to grow, but Greene notes a more critical attitude among consumers. Questions about the impact of shipping, platforms’ margins, and who ultimately benefits – not the environment, but the companies – have led to a more realistic and less idealized view of the resale market.
In the area Social Commerce The trend forecaster is seeing a shift in preferred platforms for discovery and shopping – despite consumers’ growing efforts to spend less time on their mobile phones: “TikTok and YouTube are gaining ground, while consumer enthusiasm for Meta’s platforms, including Instagram, appears to be waning,” explains Greene.
Finally, the trend researcher speaks about the changing ones Dress codes to. Greene reiterates that the era of streetwear dominance is over. “We are still in a post-pandemic phase,” she says. Consumers moved toward a more upscale, dressy-casual style that balances comfort and elegance, driven by remote work and more flexible lifestyles.
SHORTLY: Spring/Summer 2027 does not mark a new trend cycle, but rather a redefinition of values. According to trend analyst Lucie Greene, the fashion industry is undergoing a fundamental change: luxury is trying to regain relevance after years of creative instability and price inflation, the mid- to high-end segment is becoming the most important area of opportunity, consumers are buying fewer trends and more brand identity, and brick-and-mortar retail is increasingly focusing on discovery, brand experience and immersion.
Sources:
– Interview with Lucie Greene, January 28, 2026.
– AI tools were used for interview transcription and writing assistance.
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