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THE‘artificial intelligence is starting to play an increasingly important role in creation of perfumes and fragrances. In recent times, examples of AI applied to the world of fragrances and, also thanks to the use of the principles of neuroscience, the so-called are emerging neuroscents: creations designed to stimulate well-being personal and arouse positive emotions. Let’s look at them better.

Will artificial intelligence also influence the world of perfumes?

To explain the link between these three elements, in particular that between perfumery and neuroscience, it is necessary to start from the beginning, from physiology. Smell is the only sense directly connected to the brain thanks to three fundamental areas: thehippocampusseat of memory, the amygdalawhich regulates emotions, and the orbitofrontal cortexwhich regulates the processes of evaluation and awareness.

Every time we perceive a smell, these areas are activated, bringing back pleasant memories or sensations. Smell therefore has a privileged route towards what is considered the “emotional part” of the brain. And it is Neuroscience and, in the ever closer future, AI are working on this concept.

What are “neuroscents”

By applying the principles of neuroscience, cognitive psychology and artificial intelligence to perfumery, it is possible to create new generation fragrances, already known asneuroscents” or, more simply, functional fragrances.

Their peculiarity? They are compositions designed to evoke specific emotions in those who perceive them. At the basis of this evolution is not only human physiology, but also a intrinsic characteristic of the olfactory notes: lthe ability to influence mood, stimulating feelings of well-being or relaxation. It is the same principle on which aromatherapy and the use of essential oils are based.

Can AI influence the creative process?

«The relationship that exists today between perfumery and artificial intelligence is pragmatic. Perfumery is born from sensitivity, culture, memory, intuition and experience. AI is a powerful tool that can support and complement creative work, but it is not its driver. It can help manage complexity, interpret data, speed up processes, but the sense of a fragrance that comes from an absolutely human vision and feeling” he explains Ambra Martone, Co-Founder LabSolue and Vice President of ICR Industrie Cosmetiche Riunite.

«AI can therefore take care of the more technical and analytical part of perfumery: optimizing the formulations, calculate infinite variations, predict the stability of compounds, «becoming a great help in speeding up the implementation process and perfecting the idea, but not a substitute».

Who already uses the help of AI

More and more companies are taking a scientific approach to creating fragrances. IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances), for example, has developed an algorithm capable of analyzing thousands of data through sensory tests, with the aim of mapping the relationships between olfactory molecules and their correspondentsemotional responses.

Or again, Puig has collected millions of biometric data to analyze theand brain reactions to different fragrances, while the colossus L’Oréal has developed a in-store tests which allows you to identify the own ideal fragrance through brain wave analysis, with a result confirmed by 95% of participants.

Not to be forgotten Generation by Osmothe first perfume house based on artificial intelligence. Its database contains approx 5,000 aromatic molecules that can be translated into fragrances, thus allowing you to re-elaborate emotions and memories in an olfactory key.

Olfactory or artificial intelligence?

In light of this new scenario, Does it make sense to talk about “olfactory intelligence”?

«According to my interpretation, Olfactory and artificial intelligence are two distinct concepts. AI works through calculation, correlations and predictions; olfactory intelligence, on the other hand, arises from sensory memory, culture, experience and emotion. It’s the ability to turn something invisible into an experience that speaks to people. Artificial intelligence can support and enhance it, but cannot replace it” continues Martone.

From this perspective, therefore, as the expert concludes «paradoxically, this evolution will make authenticity even more central. In an increasingly technological and artificial world, the value will lie in the true stories, in the vision of the founders and creators, in the hands that create by hand. AI will raise the technical bar, the human being will have to raise the cultural and emotional one.”

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