Fashion is subject to constant renewal. However, few recent years have been as defining as 2025. Prominent departures, strategic reshuffles and behind-the-scenes leadership changes reshaped almost every major fashion house and set the stage for spring/summer 2026.
The season was hailed as historic – not because of any single collection or trend, but because of the unprecedented number of new creative directors who stepped into the spotlight and presented their visions. Even with months of advance notice, surprises and unexpected changes kept the industry on its toes. They created anticipation and uncertainty at the same time. Taken together, these developments marked a year of profound creative realignment – setting the course not just for SS26, but for a broader reshaping of the fashion landscape.
A year of change
However, the year wasn’t just marked by headline-grabbing debuts. Even less visible changes had a big impact. So Demna Gvasalia presented his first collection for Gucci, taking a bold new direction. At the same time, Simone Bellotti specified his vision for Jil Sander. Dario Vitale offered a first glimpse into his short-lived tenure at Versace, while Louise Trotter became the only woman to make a major debut at Bottega Veneta this season.
Additionally, Miguel Castro Freitas presented his first collection for Mugler, while Glenn Martens put his signature stamp on Margiela. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schouler, made their official debut at Loewe. They followed Jonathan Anderson, who presented his first women’s and men’s fashion collection for Dior.
Pierpaolo Piccioli returned to the runway with Balenciaga, while Duran Lantink took full creative charge at Jean Paul Gaultier. Both presented their first collections for their respective houses. The highlight of the season was Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated debut for Chanel – almost six years after the death of Karl Lagerfeld.
The ‘silent’ changes
In addition to the headline-grabbing debuts, 2025 was also marked by a series of quieter leadership changes. Less public, but still influential on the fashion landscape. The first few months set the tone: Daniëlle Cathari resigned as creative director at Kith Women, an early shock in the contemporary segment. Daniel Fletcher took over creative direction at Mithridate. Both Timberland and CP Company appointed new design leadership.
The wave of change continued in February. Casey Cadwallader left Mugler, Sabato De Sarno left Gucci – this made two debuts later in the season possible. Nicolas Rohaut took over the reins at IRO, and A$AP Rocky became the first creative director at Ray-Ban. The pace of appointments continued to accelerate, with Carven appointing Mark Thomas as design director. The duo behind Botter also took over the creative direction of G-Star Raw. In April, Dirk Schonberger returned to MCM, a trend in which experienced executives stabilize brands.
There were further realignments in the middle of the year. Francesco Risso left Marni and was replaced by Meryll Rogge. Jaden Smith became creative director at Louboutin Men, and Götz Offergeld took the helm at WRSTBHVR. At the same time, the departures of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia at Oscar de la Renta and the resignation of Silvia Venturini left Fendi with further high-profile vacancies.
Towards the end of the year, Maria Grazia Chiuri was confirmed at Fendi, closing a much-discussed chapter. Véronique Nichanian retired from men’s fashion at Hermès after 37 years. Grace Wales Bonner took over her position. Kim Jones, who left Dior Men earlier this year, began a new chapter at Bosideng. Olivier Rousteing left Balmain after 14 years, paving the way for his successor, Antonin Tron. Ludovico Bruno also became global creative director at Moose Knuckles.
A final reshuffle in 2025?
Shortly before the end of the year, fashion took a final turn: Versace confirmed the rather unexpected departure of Dario Vitale after just one season. Vitale was the first person outside the Versace family to take over after the Prada Group took over.
Since the position of Creative Director is once again vacant, speculation about the possible successor is increasing. Pieter Mulier, who has worked at Alaïa since 2021, is widely expected to join Versace. He brings with him a reputation for craftsmanship, dramatic volume and a keen eye for accessories. His long-standing collaboration with Raf Simons at Dior, Calvin Klein and Jil Sander makes him an obvious choice. Mulier could align Versace closer to the aesthetic of its founding family, a goal supported by newly appointed Executive Chairman Lorenzo Bertelli.
Although negotiations are still ongoing and no contract has been signed, Mulier’s possible entry promises to be another crucial chapter – one that caps a year that has already been marked by significant change.
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