There are countless sustainability initiatives. But who really drives change in the fashion industry, regardless of whether the efforts are visible to the general public or not? We interview Changemaker: Inside, consultant: inside, sustainability expert: Inside and activist: Inside in fashion. What can we learn from your work?

In episode six: Leanne Heuberger, CSR specialist at Zeeman. The Dutch textile discounter wants to show that ‘well and cheaply meet’. The company’s sustainability efforts are not only perceived in the industry, but also by consumers: positively rated inside. A large brand study showed at the beginning of the year that the Dutch: Inside Zeeman as the ‘most sustainable fashion brand’.

Fashioning Change-Episode 5: Leanne Heuberger, CSR specialist ‘Planet’ at Zeeman

One. Who are you and what is your background?

“I am Leanne Heuberger, CSR specialist at Zeeman, where I concentrate on the ‘Planet’ area.

“I started my career at the social enterprise True Price. Then I worked for four and a half years as a sustainability consultant at the Impact Institute. There I supported companies from the textile, food and financial sectors to improve their social and ecological effects. This happened, among other things, by implementing programs for existing wages in the supply chains. Zeeman worked together and I have been officially employed here since April this year. ”

Two. How do you work?

“I am currently working mainly on the climate transformation plan. We have started with a zero measurement to determine where our environmental impacts are greatest. This forms the basis for the definition of clear goals and measures. There is the most to do in the climate, although we deliberately also take a broader perspective. For example, we also consider risks and opportunities in the areas of biodiversity and water.”

“In addition, we link projects for sustainability in the supply chain with this plan. An example is our ongoing initiative with five factories in cooperation with Solidaridad. This focuses on the Wet processesso the wet processes like coloring. These processes consume a lot of energy and water, and here we can achieve improvements together. ”

Three. What can the textile industry do to achieve more effect? For example, how do you see the collaboration?

“I think there are two things out: sustainability in the supply chain and circular economy. At Zeeman, for example, we have one Program for livelihood wages. We look at the factories where we shop and make a contribution depending on our shopping volume. This is how the employees come closer to a livelihood. We do this consciously and wherever possible together with other brands that shop at the same factory. Because you can achieve much more, be it with higher wages or with investments such as solar systems. It is about the fact that the loads are not solely with the factories, but that we act together as an industry. As our Chief Executive Officer (CEO) says: It’s about one ‘Coalition of the Willing’. Only through cooperation and exchange of knowledge can we make progress in such a networked industry. ”

“We also put on a lot Circular economy. In our shopping department, three college: inside, including the senior buyer Marielle van Dillen, only on this topic. They deal with second-hand articles in the shop and with Post-Consumer-Recycling, i.e. the recycling of old clothes. The latter is still very new in the Netherlands. It requires building new supply chains and experimenting with materials. The ideal idea is that other retailers are also joining. Because only when larger scaling is achieved will it become for the actors: inside the chain is really interesting and the circular economy can be successful and profitable. ”

Four. Where do we have sustainability in the textile industry? Are we already at a turning point?

“It is difficult to say whether we are really at a turning point. In my previous work in a social enterprise, I was mainly by pioneers: this is not conveyed by a representative image of the entire industry. However, what I see now is that financial institutions are increasingly asking for climate goals and basic information. This helps to become more specific.”

“In addition, you notice that more and more employees: sustainability inside find it important. If this is not reflected in the strategy, you lose as an employer: in attractiveness. With new laws like the CSRD The financial side of sustainability is also becoming more and more visible. Let’s take cotton, a widespread material: climate change puts the cotton cultivation under pressure. Even if companies and managers do not feel inner drive for sustainability in fashion, they inevitably become an economic and strategic part of their business model. ”

Five. How do you look into the future? Is your glass half full or half empty?

“That fluctuates from day to day. With a view of 2030 it really feels like Now or Never to. That motivates, but also shows how much work is still ahead of us. This period is also necessary because we all know that our planet is going in the wrong direction. ”

“A large part of the climate guns revolves around clean energy. Fortunately, I see that the energy transition in countries like China and India is already in full swing. This is a train that can no longer be stopped, and that gives me hope. Nevertheless, it remains hard work.”

Six. Finally: Do you have a last food for thought for our readers: inside? Which tip, which lesson or what thoughts do you want to give retailers: inside?

“Sometimes you just have to start with the changeover to sustainability or circular economy. Then you have to accept that it is tedious and does not immediately bring money. Once you have started, you will learn gradually and get step by step. Just start!”

The climate transformation plan is even external stakeholders: inside, like the supplier: inside. The aim is to publish the plan at the end of this or early next year.

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