For the 25th anniversary, the Seoul Fashion Week presented itself not only as a stage for local labels, but also as a seismograph for upcoming trends. A panorama that celebrated the creative diversity of the South Korean capital was spanned between experimental drapes, streetwear statements and subtle bonds on underwear as a styling element.
For spring/summer 2026, the official calendar comprised 14 runway shows-including big names such as Caruso and Andersson Bell-and 74 showrooms in which brands presented their collections: inside. A special highlight was the collaboration with the Fashion Council Germany. In Berlin Showroom, twelve labels such as Lueder, Richert and Sia Arnika presented their designs, brought new voices into the South Korean metropolis and at the same time received valuable insights into the Korean market.
It remains to be seen whether one or one of the designers who are otherwise based in Berlin: In the future, the catwalks in Seoul will conquer. However, it is certain that the city has plenty of trends without this view.
Fashionunited has summarized the highlights of the SS26 season for you.
Ties, newly knotted
An accessory was reinterpreted again on the cats of the Seoul Fashion Week, which is no longer anchored in the context of formal men’s fashion: the tie. In Seoul, the former status symbol once again became the game ball of post-ginging styling codes and found itself in a variety of different contexts.
Sometimes loosely wrapped around the neck, sometimes draped on the side or even worn twice-the styling options seem to have far from going out in terms of the former office accessory. Caruso put two ties around the neck of a model and combined them with an otherwise almost ordinary look made of over Oversized shirt and denim, while Andersson Bell styled a crooked tie into a tattered vest, a deliberately crumpled shirt and a pants lined by flowers. At Big Park there was a pattern mix of striped tie, checkered shirt and further bunch trousers.
transparency
As with ties, transparency has been omnipresent in recent years – especially on the red carpet. In Seoul, however, the trend won the new depth and direction. Instead of serving as a pure provocation or glamorous element, transparency was reinterpreted as a means for layering, subversion and narrative.
For FS26, the transparency was sometimes a deconstructed variety of tailoring, sometimes the emphasized tenderness. Andersson Bell questioned the definition of a business look and combined a transparent mesh-longsleeve with a classic jacket, while Caruso deconstructed a jersey jacket with a transparent mesh layering. KWAK Hyun Joo relied on romanticized transparency in candy colors with a lilac-colored two-part of crop top and rock, including transparent inserts, ruffles and asymmetrical locations.
Underwear as a styling element
The game with underwear as a visible styling element also found its place on the catwalks in Seoul. Instead of understood as a hidden layer, she deliberately moved to the center of the looks – sometimes as a sporty detail, sometimes as a subversive statement.
The New Wave Boys brand combined a corset-like off-shoulder top with high-cut shorts and bloomers, while Ulkin pointed to an almost classic combination of bikini top, open vest and transparent mesh. Arts presented themselves more experimental. With the label, the underwear was printed on a white T-shirt, which not only changed its intended use, but also the proportions of the model.
Draped gaps
In Seoul, some labels rely on refined experiments with texture and silhouette. The use of adjustable ruffles details was particularly striking, the fabrics awarded a lively, almost sculptural surface.
An ensemble of arts showed a shirt blouse dress that was reinterpreted by laces and cords, which gave classic stripes an almost futuristic dynamic and volume. Another outfit of the label Lie played with contrasts: a navy-colored two-piece made of top and mini skirt was interpreted by fine gaps and accessories such as a network cap sporty urban. Comparatively traditionally, draping was used in a light blue brick dress from MMAM, the side of the sideways not only brought movement into the material, but also flashed skin due to a high slit.
Shadow play
While color, gloss and extravagance provide the tone in many places, some labels consciously opted for darkness. But instead of disappearing in the shade, they used black as a stage for precise tailoring and subtle, personal accents.
At Big Park, this was shown in a dress, the strict top of which was reminiscent of classic tailor crafts – almost like a merger with a traditional Hanbok – while a fluent, pleated skirt completed the silhouette. Arts presented a monochrome, almost sporty ensemble, which looked surprisingly playful through oversized loops. The opposite pole for the color explosion of other designers: Inside, the look of Sling Stone, which radiated an almost sculptural strict with a long coat, clear lines and oversized proportions.