The collection for spring/summer 2026 is an ode of queer adolescents, whose love stories are buried under time, shame and silence, the German fashion label announced on Tuesday after its fashion show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Designer Mario No looks back in times like Edwardian England and the Socialist Poles of the 80s, in which queer intimacy have been lived between need and danger in secret. To do this, he is inspired by literary works such as “Maurice” by Em Forster, “Swimming in the dark” by Tomasz Jedrowski and “Young Mungo” by Douglas Stuart.
From retreat to memory
The presentation is divided into three sections that represent different emotional and psychological phases of the queer. These range from your own withdrawal and cover the return from the hiding place to memory.
No one illustrates the withdrawal through its strength in tailoring. Pieces such as black, asymmetrical blazers and long coats serve as protection.
With the return to daylight, the silhouettes continue. The collection is now more casual and more revealing. Even if the color palette with gray and white is mostly reserved, light color accents appear with a delicate pink. Patterns such as Karos and Floral Prints can also be seen.
With the memory, the elements of tailoring were also returning, but in a much more so often form. Elements such as flowers and caros are also preserved in this phase. So the collection traces the previously told, while the dream is slowly coming to an end.
