TOGoing to mountain huts is already an exercise in subtraction: only the strictly necessary can be placed in the backpack and this gives, in addition to the lightness of the luggage, an unexpected freedom. And if the destination is a refuge at high altitude, the sobriety of the accommodation is the perfect setting to enhance the absolute beauty of the landscape. Here are three mountain huts, also suitable for untrained trekkers.
In Valle d’Aosta, where the opposite is Mont Blanc
The wonder begins by walking into the very green Val FerretNorth of Courmayeur. Easy to get to from Lavachey (with about an hour’s walk and only 300 meters of altitude difference between the larch woods), the Bonatti Refuge (2025 m) is at the foot of the Grandes Jorasses and offers an extraordinary view of the Frébouge glacier and on a respectable neighbor: the Mont Blanc. The recommended path is the one indicated by trail marker 28A: it starts beyond the wooden bridge located in La Remisa, just above Lavachey, from here, following the signs for the refuge, you go up the wood.
The emotion is to share the landscapes crossed by the super trained trekkersbecause among the mountain huts, this one has been managed by Mara Rizzo for 20 years it is located along the path of the Alta Via della Valle d’Aosta n. 1 and the Tour of Mont Blanc. (refugebonatti.it, overnight stay, breakfast and dinner cost 80 euros per person). Fontina and polenta have a different flavor here, especially after a walk.
The panoramic path-balcony along the coast, from the Bonatti refuge leads to the bottom of the valley, up to the Elena refuge, where it is not uncommon to spot large deer. The Elena Refuge can also be reached from the bottom of the valley, from the Arnouva locality, in about 40 minutes on foot, choosing to take the easy mule track or the panoramic path. (refugeelena.itthe refuge is open until September 15, the double room costs 43 euros per person).
In Valmalenco “the mountains smile at you”
Remember the cartoon Heidi? To the Cristina Refuge, in front of the‘Alpe Prabello mountain pasture, it seems to be in the idyllic cartoon of the cheerful shepherd girl. We are in Lombardy, in Valmalencoat 2287 meters, in the heart of the Valtellinesi Alps. The icon of the landscape is Pizzo Scalino, with an elegant and magical pyramid shape, overlooking the Cristina refuge, spartan and reachable in an hour (260 meters in altitude) from Campo Moro. Built in 1924 by Ersilio Bricalli (who dedicated it to his wife Cristina), it is managed by the great-granddaughter Vania, therefore by the fourth generation of the family.
While expert mountaineers reach the top of Pizzo Scalino, hikers enjoy the sun on the lawn in front of the refuge dotted with stone huts, or taste the pizzoccheri, polenta and braised meats, or potato taroz, and the Saracen cake with walnuts, specialty of the refuge. The calories are burned off quickly with the hike to Campagneda lakes. In the evening, after dinner, the sunset is a spectacle. And the next morning we stop at the huts of the mountain pastures, to buy the casera cheese produced on the spot with the milk drawn the day before. The Cristina Refuge, with 4-bedded rooms. The overnight stay with half board costs 52 euros per person.
Trentino, mountain huts and high altitude flavors
The enchantment of Catinaccio is the leitmotif of the walk to Gardeccia refuge. From Vigo di Fassa take the Catinaccio cable car up to Ciampedie, and then continue on the forest path n. 540 and in about 50 minutes of comfortable walk you arrive at the Gardeccia Refuge.
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