LAnd Grottoes of Catullus they are a magical place. From the tip of the narrow peninsula of Sirmione they offer a unique view on the two shores of Lake Garda. Despite the name, they are not caves: it is an archaeological site that extends over two hectares with the remains of the most impressive Roman villa in all of northern Italy. In the fifteenth century it was identified as the house of Catullus. In reality, the owner remains shrouded in mystery. He was not the emperor, but given the imposing size of the building he must have been a high-ranking, wealthy and powerful figure. From 2 June to 30 July, the Grottoes of Catullus will be visitable for the first time also in the eveningfrom 8.45pm to midnight.
Imperial extravagances
After sunset, the Grottoes of Catullus light up with light, sounds, words, flavors, suggestions thanks to immersive art project Imperial extravagances of the artist and curator Vera Uberti with NEVER Museum and in collaboration with the Regional Directorate of Museums of Lombardy. A series of multimedia installations, including a triptych by David LaChapelle, arouse emotions and create a new alliance between ancient and contemporary. And at the end of the path, there is also one food experience (info: www.maimuseum.it).
Grottoes of Catullus, olive trees and bases of the upper terrace of the villa. Ph Marco Introini
The recovery of 900 olive trees
A curiosity: the archaeological site of the Grotte di Catullo is immersed in a olive grove which has a curious history. Since 1947 it has been part of the museum, but in the past it was cultivated by the families of Sirmione who over the centuries had also used the abandoned villa as a quarry for building material. Today about 1470 old trees survive, of which 900 have been the subject of a restoration and put back to use. For three years, they have been offering a delicious extra virgin olive oil which the museum, however, cannot sell directly. From this year it will be distributed by La Cascina social cooperative (http://www.cooperativalacascina.eu).
Grotte di Catullo, the beach of Lido delle Grotte, formerly Jamaica. Ph Silvia Biagi
The Lido delle Grotte
Who knows if the Roman owners of the villa delle Grottoes of Catullus they had succumbed to the temptation of a dip in the lake on the beach in front of their property! The English newspaper Guardian inserted it between the 10 most beautiful beaches on the planet and it is not by chance that it is known as Jamaica. Smooth white rocks that emerge from the lake and turquoise waters make this beach a real pearl, which can be accessed on foot before entering the museum, or through the archaeological site. Just bring your swimsuit, and from the excavations of the villa you can go to the beach, swim and then resume the tour of the site. To emphasize the link between nature and culture, the beach will be called from this year Lido delle Grotte.
The Scaligero Castle of Sirmione. Ph Marco Introini
Hunting for ghosts
In Sirmione the Regional Directorate of Museums of Lombardy also manages the Scaligero Castle, the majestic defensive fortress which is the subject of constant restoration. In 2018 it was reopened the dock. Thanks to the work in progress, which also includes acrobatic building interventions for cleaning the walls, we will return to see the cone in its original color. Not only that: as he points out Emanuela Daffra, director of the State Museums of Lombardy, for 2023 – when Bergamo and Brescia will be the Italian capital of culture together – the Castle will present itself with even safer routes and with new services, such as a left-luggage office and a bookshop. And perhaps the lucky ones during the visit will also sight the ghost of Ebengardo, Arice’s loverwho was stabbed here on a stormy night by the Marquis Elaberto di Feltre.
Detail of a mosaic from the Roman Villa of Desenzano. Ph Maria Tatsos
Rich Romans in Desenzano
Not far from the Caves of Catullor, a Desenzanofor archeology enthusiasts there is another surprise: the Roman Villa. Built in the 1st century BC and rebuilt in different periods up to the 4th century. AD, was a luxury residence. The property included gardens and vegetable gardens, and was located by the lake. “We don’t know the owners, but we do know that it was inhabited all year round,” he comments Flora Berizzi, director of the site and of the Grotte di Catullo. “A hypocaust heating system was found, hot air was circulating under the floor. There were rooms covered with murals and above all important mosaics ». Who knows what was the surprise of those who, while digging in this area of vegetable gardens around 1921, found the first remains of the villa. Also for the Roman Villa, there is a project to revise the paths and new innovative green roofswith lawns on the roof.
One app for the three museums
The Grotte di Catullo, the Scaligero Castle and the Roman Villa in 2019 had a record number of visitors: 600 thousand. “We don’t stop at the numbers,” says the director Emanuela Daffra. “We aim to improve the quality of the visit”. It already exists a free app: is called 1,2,3 museums of Garda and helps the visitor to choose his favorite route: to try.
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