It can take weeks or even months from the design conception to the creation of a flamenco dress. This artisanal process carried out by tailors and flamenco fashion designers is comparable to that of renowned haute couture companies. It is reflected in high-quality garments that have managed to further develop and popularize this garment, which is rooted in rich tradition, outside of Spain.
In the glow of a new season, the Andalusian design competition We Love Flamenco once again set the pulse of an industry preparing to arrive in Seville, the Andalusian capital and stronghold of flamenco, in time for the April fair. An event that opens the masses and pilgrimages in the community, where the clothes leave the catwalk and are given life in their natural environment.
The flamenco fashion market is as diverse as its protagonists, each with a unique story and a business model as authentic as its dresses, which, although rooted in tradition, have the ability to incorporate ruffles, polka dots and fringes into complete to transform different shapes and stories.
With the successful expansion of flamenco fashion beyond the borders of Andalusia and the exploitation of international opportunities, the sector is recording constant annual growth. The latest records from the Andalusian Foreign Promotion Agency (Extenda) show a forecast turnover of almost 557 million euros by 2025, supported by exports to regions such as the Middle East, among others, which continue to rise.
Designer Pedro Béjar: “Outside Spain, the brand’s dresses are perceived as creations suitable for shows or parties”
Designer Pedro Béjar, who chose Dutch drag queen The Countess to put the finishing touches to the presentation of his “Vulnerable” collection at We Love Flamenco, points out that his creations are highly appreciated internationally for special occasions and shows .
Since its founding, the brand has been characterized by a combination of innovation and a tradition that goes back to its roots. Additionally, Béjar tells FashionUnited that folklore has also been very influential in his passion for flamenco fashion, a segment that currently accounts for the majority of the company’s revenue.
The brand’s designs are distributed mainly through prior appointments in the center of Seville and through Instagram, a platform on which the brand has found an effective means of promoting and selling its creations, with Seville and Jaén, in the south of Spain, being the main provinces. However, the brand also travels to international destinations every year such as Dubai, Qatar, Mexico and New Zealand last year.
Johanna Calderón: “The Arab Emirates are an important market for Made in Spain“
Johanna Calderón has identified concrete opportunities in other countries, for example in the United Arab Emirates, where she believes “Made In Spain” has a high value. Her focus on flamenco fashion, but not just the flamenco dress, has facilitated the internationalization of her designs in the USA, Latin America, Asia and Australia too.
At We Love Flamenco, the designer made a case for giving the flamenco dress the status of a work of art by greeting visitors to her show with several flamenco-clad models standing on podiums inspired by those in museums.
The fashion show then evolved into a sequence of flamenco-inspired looks paying tribute to her family.
The question is not how much it costs, but how much you are willing to pay
There is no price limit for custom designs because they depend on factors such as fabrics, patterns, hours of handwork and testing, Calderón explains.
With two stores of her own, one in Madrid and one in Seville, Johanna Calderón, who started with a collection of just five flamenco dresses, currently also operates by appointment in London. There she has built solid relationships with customers in the city and plans to expand further with new outlets.
As her business grew, she received requests to design wedding dresses, which led to her gradually expanding into other categories and “always respecting the exclusivity” of her customers. Currently, the bridal collection accounts for a significant portion of sales and is what excites her the most, she told FashionUnited.
Carmen Acedo: “Flamenco dancers and dance schools from countries like Korea are a special opportunity in other countries.”
For her part, Carmen Acedo, who entered the world of flamenco fashion under the influence of her mother, who worked as a seamstress in the city, reveals that her dresses cost between 400 and 900 euros.
Her studio is located in Triana, Seville, and from there she distributes her collections through multi-brand stores in various cities in Spain, including Andújar, Almería, Jaén, Málaga and Sanlúcar.
Sales of her collections extend beyond Spanish borders and she is also present in international markets such as South Korea, New York and Mexico thanks to flamenco dancers and dance schools.
Over the years, the designer has evolved in the industry by maintaining tradition in her designs while incorporating innovation. The basis of her creations has always been traditional flamenco fashion, which ensures that her costumes are timeless.
Regarding the evolution of flamenco fashion in general, Carmen Acedo says that as fashion changes, the styles of costumes also vary and comfort has become a priority for the women dressing for flamenco.
From her perspective, she highlights the importance of events like We Love Flamenco as an invaluable showcase for increasing sales and visibility of her brand. However, she also calls for greater public support to promote and highlight the flamenco fashion sector.
“I think the public sector should be more supportive of these types of initiatives to give more visibility to the flamenco fashion sector.”
In the case of We Love Flamenco, the involvement of the city and provincial councils is limited to institutional collaboration in exchange for visibility and promotion in return.
The most direct competitor, SIMOF, organized by the communications agency Doble Erre, which celebrated the Flamenco Fashion Intentionality Week in Fibes (the Congress Palace of Seville), has public funding.
Mónica Méndez: “My customers are looking for comfortable, mid-priced outfits that are neither over the top nor 100 percent traditional.”
With a clear focus on Andalusian tradition and flamenco fashion, Mónica Méndez Gómez has built a successful business that includes both flamenco and custom-made clothing, a diversification that has been motivated by the changing needs of her clientele.
After more than twenty years in the industry, Méndez emphasizes the importance of innovating patterns and fabrics without losing the fundamental essence of flamenco fashion.
Mónica Méndez addresses the current challenges of flamenco fashion and points out the growing competition between designers, but also emphasizes the increasing demand for these clothes. Her typical clientele is described as mid- to high-class, looking for comfortable and elegant outfits that aren’t too traditional.
In terms of utility, traditional flamenco dresses are the most successful for the brand. Méndez confirms that it makes sense to live exclusively from flamenco fashion, since the season lasts until October and social networks have expanded their reach even further.
The brand has chosen a local strategy and is only present in Spain. The company has its own atelier in Alcalá de Guadaíra, Seville, where customers can enjoy a direct shopping experience. In addition, they take part in various exhibitions, such as the one they have planned for the pilgrimage season in Cartaya, Lepe and the Huelva area.
For Méndez, events like We Love Flamenco are crucial to increase sales and visibility of the brand, mark the start of the season and provide the necessary visibility at the brand level.
FashionUnited was invited to participate by the organization of the event.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.es. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.