With almost 3,000 equipped single pitches, the Greek island is the capital of free climbing in the Mediterranean. Fans come from all over the world, but crowds do not live on these cliffs
Monica Conforti
03 September
It’s time to Kalymnos. Free climbers from all over the world know this well and, even if they are orphans of the historic Climbing Festival, they have never removed this very special Greek island from their radar. So, now that the summer heat is loosening its grip, he heads for the Dodecanese to meet and confront climbers from all over the world in an unusual context.
Climbing route for all levels
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From the relatively recent discovery – only in 1996 some Italian climbers realized the potential of the island and started bolting some routes – to date they have been traced over 2,700 single pitches and multi pitch routes, mostly of not excessive difficulty. Manna for climbers who know they can have fun on crags that are never crowded with the possibility of choosing walls sheltered from the wind or the sun. To make the trip even more exciting are also the splendid conditions of the limestone and the variety of the walls. You climb between overhangs, reeds, vertical plates and large stalactites. Almost always with the blue of the Aegean Sea under the shoes.
Three top crags
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From Odyssey everyone goes through it. With over 60 routes from 4c to 9a, traced on supported slabs, sometimes interrupted by short overhangs, it attracts climbers of all levels, some to have fun and some to just spy on the best. Equally renowned is The Great Grotto, not far from the village of Armeos. Its impressive overhanging streets in the central part are reserved for the top, while the external walls are accessible to almost everyone, especially in the sector called “Afternoon”. The crag of Palionisios Bay, on the northeastern coast, is one of Kalymnos’ newest discoveries and is very popular especially when temperatures start to drop. Constant exposure to the sun and a position sheltered from the winds guarantee fun even when it’s cold elsewhere on about fifteen single pitches from 4b to 7b. Without forgetting that you climb in front of one of the most spectacular bays on the island.
Not just Climbing: here is the Kalymnos trail
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Certainly we leave for Kalymnos mainly to climb and share our passion with passionate colleagues from all over the world. But there are also more and more programs of specialized agencies (including the Italian Overalp, www.overalp.it) that combine climbing with other sports activities, such as sailing or trekking.
The Kalymnos trail, for example, it is a 100 km route that connects many of the most interesting places on the island between mountains, monasteries, beaches, castles and Byzantine ruins. The route is quite challenging, it requires orientation skills and familiarity with truly wild environments. But give away great scenarios and the subtle pleasure of adventure. Nothing else is needed.
03 September 2022 – 09:38
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